Northern Norway's ���ǻ�ø has long been known as a waypoint for those travelling to the Lofoten Islands, and as a major stop on the Norwegian coastal route. But in recent years, the Arctic city has become a firmer fixture on the tourist trail.

More cruise ships are calling into ���ǻ�ø on winter northern lights and summer midnight sun itineraries. But most importantly, the city has been gearing up for its year in the spotlight as a European Capital of Culture in 2024.

With the cultural festival now underway, many people will visit ���ǻ�ø over the year to come. Festival organisers will hope the year leaves a lasting legacy, with increased tourism numbers in future years.

Oslo and ���ǻ�ø

More than one million people live within easy travelling distance of Oslo, while the capital is also the main entry point for international visitors. So when explaining how to get to ���ǻ�ø, we will use Oslo as our starting point.

Oslo and ���ǻ�ø are a long way from each other, and the Norwegian mountains make ground transportation notoriously slow.

���ǻ�ø Travel Resources: &�Բ�����;–&�Բ�����;&�Բ�����;–&�Բ�����;. And whatever you do, don't travel without Travel Insurance!

Flying is the most obvious option to travel between the two cities, but it's not the only one, especially for tourists embracing the growing trend of slow travel.

Flying to ���ǻ�ø

For the vast majority of people, flying is the only realistic option to get from Oslo to ���ǻ�ø. Most people living in Norway wouldn't even consider doing anything else. The reason? Flight duration is approximately 1 hour 25 minutes.

Another bonus to flying is that ���ǻ�ø's Airport is relatively close to the city centre compared with many other Norwegian airports. It takes just 15-20 minutes to walk, less than 10 minutes on a local bus, or just 5 minutes in a taxi.

Both Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) and Norwegian serve ���ǻ�ø from Oslo's main airport at Gardermoen (OSL). Typically, SAS operate between four and seven flights per day to ���ǻ�ø, with Norwegian operating four.

As with all domestic flights in Norway, the earlier you book, the cheaper the fares. If you're planning in advance, watch out for regular sales from both airlines.

���ǻ�ø Airport is an important hub for the airline �¾�����ø��, but the airline focuses on regional connectivity. As such, there are no direct �¾�����ø�� flights from Oslo to ���ǻ�ø.

However, although flying is the obvious choice, it doesn't mean you have to do so. With increasing environmental concerns and a growing emphasis on slow travel, there are other options for tourists to consider.

Driving from Oslo to ���ǻ�ø

Keen drivers may wish to consider planning a road trip. It's not something I've ever done, as for most of my time in Norway, I've lived in Trondheim, midway between the two cities.

Road trippers shouldn't plan to drive directly from Oslo to ���ǻ�ø, though! According to Google Maps, it would take at least 16 hours to drive the 1,189 km distance. And that's without stops!

The real reason to plan a road trip is to enjoy some of the great destinations along the way.

By extending your journey, you could include one or more of the scenic Rondane National Park, the UNESCO World Heritage Site Røros, the historic city of Trondheim, and the picturesque Helgeland coast.

Driving might also be a good option for you if you plan to continue your trip on to Lofoten. Driving in Lofoten is a wonderful way to experience the very best the archipelago has to offer.

However, there are some issues with driving from Oslo to ���ǻ�ø. Unless you plan to drive both ways, renting a car just for a one-way trip adds a huge amount in fees, if it's even possible at all.

Instead of driving the entire way, a good option is to fly to ���ǻ�ø and rent a car from there. This way, you can explore the surroundings of ���ǻ�ø and take the car ferry to Lofoten but avoid the costly, lengthy drive from the capital.

Train Travel from Oslo to ���ǻ�ø

Another good option for slow travel is to take the train. There is no direct train from Oslo to ���ǻ�ø. However, the trains on the Oslo to Trondheim line are timed to arrive in time to connect with departures on the Trondheim to ���ǻ�ø line.

Although it's possible to travel between the two cities by train, the total duration would be approximately 18 hours, and one of the two trains would need to be a night train. This increases the cost (if you want a sleeping cabin) but it could prove a good use of time.

At the time of writing, there is long-term disruption on the Oslo to Trondheim railway due to the damage caused to infrastructure during Storm Hans in 2023. An estimated time for full operations to resume is yet to be set.

This means that there are currently fewer options for travelling by train. There is a direct train from Oslo to Trondheim that runs via Hamar and Røros, but this takes considerably longer than the main line.

Another option is to travel by coach from Oslo to Trondheim, and continue on the train from Trondheim to ���ǻ�ø. Check the current schedules for both trains and long-distance coach services using the .

A Creative Option for Tourists

The world-famous Oslo to Bergen railway lets you see some of Norway's spectacular mountainous scenery from the comfort of a train carriage. But it also takes you to Bergen, the starting point of the well-known Norwegian coastal route.

These days. both operators Hurtigruten and Havila Voyages heavily promote shorter voyages. Subject to cabin availability, a departure from Bergen is available from one of the two companies every day of the year.

���ǻ�ø Travel Resources: &�Բ�����;–&�Բ�����;&�Բ�����;–&�Բ�����;. And whatever you do, don't travel without Travel Insurance!

The ferry leaves Bergen at 8.30pm and arrives in ���ǻ�ø at 1.05pm after a three-night stay onboard. Along the way, you'll enjoy a stay in Ålesund, or a visit to the Geirangerfjord or Hjørundfjord, depending on the season. You'll also spend a few hours in Trondheim.

Prices vary based on demand and will be more expensive during the summer months. In the summer, securing a cabin will be the biggest limiting factor, so book early.

Have you taken any of these options other than flying to get from Oslo to ���ǻ�ø? Which is your preferred mode of transport? Let us know your thoughts in the comments.

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It feels as if a lifetime has passed since ���ǻ�ø was announced as one of Europe's three Capitals of Culture for 2024. Earlier this month, the city finally got its year in the spotlight underway.

The certainly are ambitious. More than 1,000 cultural events are planned, shining a spotlight on Northern Norway from coastal culture to Sami lifestyle.

Although I had hoped to attend in person, I was busy sailing the Norwegian coastal route. Although I called into ���ǻ�ø, it was a few days before the opening ceremony. Thankfully, I was able to catch much of the opening ceremony live on TV.

The weekend included an official ceremony attended by the Queen, and a grand opening show at the harbour with thousands of locals in attendance. Here's a photo summary of what went on.

Official Opening Ceremony and Concert

The weekend's events began with an official ceremony at the Stormen Concert Hall.

The event was graced by the presence of Her Majesty Queen Sonja of Norway and Norwegian Prime Minister Jonas Gahr Støre, alongside numerous Norwegian and international dignitaries.

Events Across ���ǻ�ø

Various events took place in ���ǻ�ø during the weekend, highlighting various aspects of the year to come.

Sami culture will play a major part in the year's schedule of events. To hear more, check out this episode of the 51�Թ��� Show, in which we hear directly from the Sami coordinator about the plans.

Another highlight of the opening weekend was a showcase of Arctic cuisine.

Outdoor Opening Ceremony–in February!

The highlight of the celebrations was a mesmerising outdoor show at ���ǻ�ø Harbour, executed by the Berlin-based firm phase7, in collaboration with Nordland Teater.

This unprecedented event in ���ǻ�ø and Northern Norway featured a mix of theatre, dance, drums, and music, culminating in a breathtaking fireworks display.

Despite the cold temperatures of February and the recent storm (more on that below), the event drew a crowd of 20,000 to the harbour for the show, which signalled the start of a year-long celebration of culture and art.

Lasting around half an hour, the show was a tribute to Nordland's culture with significant nods to Sámi heritage, underscored by a performance from Sámi artist and activist Ella Marie Hætta Isaksen.

The event not only celebrated ���ǻ�ø's cultural richness but also highlighted its Sámi roots, adding a layer of significance to the festivities.

Surviving Storm Ingunn

Despite the week's challenges, including the threat of cancellation due to Storm Ingunn's fierce winds, the weather calmed in time for the eagerly anticipated event.

This allowed locals and visitors to experience what many described as a memorable moment in Nordland's cultural calendar.

The opening is just the beginning of a packed schedule for ���ǻ�ø2024, with 1,000 events planned throughout the year.

Future highlights include Europe’s only land art biennale, a Sámi theatre trilogy, a concert in a submerged cave, and much more, promising a diverse and engaging cultural experience for all who visit. Check out the for what's on and when.

Are you planning to attend any events during ���ǻ�ø 2024? Let us know in the comments.

The post In Pictures: ���ǻ�ø Opens Its Year as European Capital of Culture appeared first on 51�Թ���.

In 2024, ���ǻ�ø becomes European Capital of Culture together with Bad Ischl (Austria) and Tartu (Estonia). Plans are almost complete for the largest ever cultural project in Northern Norway, with Queen Sonja set to attend the opening ceremony.

���ǻ�ø will be the first ever city north of the Arctic Circle to hold the prestigious title. The city, county and organising committee are pulling out all the stops with some 1,000 events planned.

If you're curious about what to expect from this small Arctic city next year, then read on for a peek at what's in store. But first, a little about the place.

Introducing ���ǻ�ø

���ǻ�ø and the county of Nordland are getting ready to welcome visitors from all over Europe, but how much do you know about the region? To get you started, here are a few highlights from our article all about ���ǻ�ø.

The city of ���ǻ�ø is home to less than 50,000 people, but is an important transit hub for northern Norway. Ferries leave ���ǻ�ø for Lofoten and the city is also the northern terminus of the Nordland railway from Trondheim.

Read more: An Introduction to Norwegian Culture

From ���ǻ�ø airport, �¾�����ø�� operates many flights to smaller airports in the north, especially on the Lofoten Islands and Vesterålen.

The number of terminal passengers in 2022 topped 1.5 million, putting ���ǻ�ø airport behind only Oslo, Bergen, Trondheim, Stavanger and Tromsø.

There are ambitious plans in place to move the airport to make room for a major expansion of ���ǻ�ø.

The Saltstraumen maelstrom is a big tourist draw to ���ǻ�ø. A short drive or RIB-boat ride from downtown ���ǻ�ø, the narrow strait is home to one of the world's strongest tidal currents.

Opening ceremony

Queen Sonja, the High Patron of ���ǻ�ø 2024, has accepted an invitation to officially open ���ǻ�ø 2024 with a presence in ���ǻ�ø on the opening day. Festival director Wallann Larsen says it is “great recognition and inspiration” that Her Majesty will attend.

A decision to hold an outdoor opening ceremony in Northern Norway in February is a brave one! To be held in the city's harbour, the opening ceremony is expected to attract an audience of 15,000 people with lots more following along live on NRK.

A purpose-built floating stage has been designed, while the team says the ceremony has been “designed to withstand the elements.”

Sámi in the spotlight

In a previous episode of the 51�Թ��� Show, program director Henrik Sand Dagfinrud said Sami culture will be incorporated into the year's activities given the importance of the community to Nordland and the whole of Northern Norway.

Now much of the program has been announced, we have a better idea of what that means in reality. Here are some of the highlights:

Sámi theatre trilogy: With the aim of bringing Sámi drama to a wider audience, this ambitious theatre trilogy. Themes of the love of nature and outdoor living, humanity's ancient relationship with animals, climate change, justice for the weak and unprotected, and earth's future will be explored.

Árran 360°: A hybrid of indigenous storytelling and innovative technology will be held in the world's largest lavvo. First shown at the Venice Biennale last year, the films will be coming to ���ǻ�ø in 2024 in partnership with the International Sámi Film Institute.

Pop-up Sámi museum: The city museum will be transformed into a Sámi museum for the year. One of the exhibitions consists of 200 artefacts, coming from all over the Sápmi region. The exhibition will open in February 2024.

Kjerringøy Land Art Biennale

Billed as Europe's only land art biennale, the latest edition of the (K-Lab) will open in July 2024 following some preview events this year. Held regularly since 2007, K-Lab is an artist-run, international, interdisciplinary, and site-specific platform for land art.

Kjerringøy is located on the Karlsøyfjorden about 30 km north of ���ǻ�ø. A group of well-preserved authentic trading buildings have become part of the Nordland Museum. It's now a popular tourist site and filming location.

“We invite artists working in various media such as sculpture, painting, dance, performance, sound, text, photography, video, etc. By bringing artists from different disciplines together in a creative community focusing on nature, we discuss the concept of land and eco-art and create a meeting place for artists and the public,” states the K-Lab website.

Nordland by Light

Nordland's first ever light festival will open in November 2024 as one of the last major events of ���ǻ�ø's year in the cultural spotlight. The festival begins by turning out the lights across Nordland, inspired by the growing trend of dark sky tourism.

“The absence of both direct sunlight and artificial light provides a unique opportunity to heighten our senses, and at the same time communicate something substantial about our time’s most important issues,” states the project team.

“Most of the programme will be temporary installations and performances, but we also envision permanent light installations as part of the ���ǻ�ø 2024 legacy,” they add.

Live music

Concert in Pluragrotte: Planned for Easter Friday, this concert in a submerged cave will be a true world-first. All participants–musicians, technicians and the limited audience–will have to be accredited cave divers.

Part of ���ǻ�ø 2024's ‘leave nothing but footprints' sustainability concept, the concert will be streamed through a multi-camera production so it can reach a global audience.

Querini Opera: First set up in 2012, the opera will make its international debut in Venice in 2023. As part of ���ǻ�ø 2023, there will be performances in ���ǻ�ø and Tromsø. One-third of the residents on the island of Røst are involved in the project as volunteers.

Spire: A talent programme for young classical musicians aged 19 to 27, in partnership with Nordland Music Festival. The main mentor is Eldbjørg Hemsing, one of Norway’s most famous violinists and a former guest on the 51�Թ��� Show.

Pure Music: Scheduled for March 2024, Pure Music aims to be the world's most sustainable concert. More details will follow.

Other cultural highlights

Midsummer's Eve bonfire event: A spectacular bonfire event in ���ǻ�ø to celebrate Midsummer Night’s Eve.

Art Trail / War Travels: A large-scale investment aiming to offer a better experience for those travelling along the Nordland Railway.

Messy Corners/Det kontroversielle Hamsun: A new exhibition profiles the controversial legacy of one of Norway's most famous novelists. Knut Hamsun irrevocably tarnished his legacy by being an ardent supporter of nazi Germany.

Feeding Europe aims to put Arctic cuisine on the culinary map. The Arctic Food festival in Mosjøen is part of the programme, but watch out too for Arctic food roadshows around Nordland, with top-class food from local and visiting chefs.

From The North: An exhibition featuring a unique collection of rare Arctic travelogues shown together with paintings and drawings by Peder Balke (1804-1887), one of Norway's most famous landscape painters.

Sound of Silence: To be held in ���ǻ�ø and Vega in March 2024, endangered seabirds will be in focus with a big international UNESCO conference, but also art, music (including a specially composed new symphony) and activities for the whole family.

NAISA: North American Indigenous Studies Associations (NAISA), the largest scholarly organisation for indigenous issues and communities, moves from Toronto to ���ǻ�ø in the summer of 2024.

These are just some of the highlights of ���ǻ�ø 2024. There is a lot more planned, which you can discover in detail on the . If you're planning to visit ���ǻ�ø in 2024, have a great time!

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When ���ǻ�ø was announced as one of the European Capitals of Culture for 2024, it surprised many people. Nowhere was that more true than within Norway itself!

Often known more as a waypoint to the Lofoten Islands by adventurous tourists than as a cultural powerhouse, ���ǻ�ø stepped into the European spotlight for its Arctic identity, its connection to the land and sea, and its place as a gateway to the north.

I’ve visited ���ǻ�ø several times throughout the seasons, and over the years I’ve learned a lot about the city, its culture, and the dramatic surrounding nature.

Whether you’ve never heard of this northern hub or you’re planning a trip soon, check out these 18 fascinating facts about ���ǻ�ø.

1. ���ǻ�ø Was a European Capital of Culture in 2024

���ǻ�ø made history in 2024 by becoming the first city located north of the Arctic Circle to hold the prestigious European Capital of Culture title. It joined Austria’s Bad Ischl and Estonia’s Tartu as one of the three designated cultural capitals that year.

This was only the third time a Norwegian city had received the honour, following Bergen in 2000 and Stavanger in 2008. The programme was extensive, spanning the entire Nordland county and highlighting the unique cultural expressions of northern Norway.

Highlights included exhibitions on Sámi culture, concerts in the Stormen concert hall, community art initiatives, and performances in remote fishing villages along the coast.

Although the year is now over, the legacy of ���ǻ�ø2024 will shape the city for years to come. If you want to learn more, check out this podcast interview with one of the management team.

2. ���ǻ�ø Already Had Some Striking Cultural Buildings

Even before its year in the spotlight, ���ǻ�ø had invested in standout cultural infrastructure. The most notable example is the , a striking waterfront complex in downtown ���ǻ�ø that opened in 2014.

Designed by the British firm DRDH Architects, the complex consists of a library and a concert hall in two separate buildings, created to blend better with the scale of ���ǻ�ø’s cityscape.

Inside, dramatic staircases, expansive wooden interiors, and views over the harbour create a warm and inviting atmosphere that contrasts with the Arctic setting outside.

A writer from the website visited Stormen in 2019 and had great things to say about the interior:

“A dramatic staircase of beautiful wood leads up through a central void to the upper floors and the full height windows give views towards the harbour from almost all parts of the library, while also allowing natural light to reach the interior spaces.”

The venue regularly hosts concerts, theatre, literature events, and art exhibitions, making it the beating heart of ���ǻ�ø’s cultural scene.

3. ���ǻ�ø Is Northern Norway's Second Biggest City, Depending How You Count

Tromsø and ���ǻ�ø have long jostled for dominance as the capital of Northern Norway. On paper, Tromsø seems to win out, with a municipal population of over 77,000 compared to ���ǻ�ø’s 53,000.

But statistics from SSB (Statistics Norway) reveal a more nuanced picture. If you consider only the urban areas—disregarding the large rural zones included in many Norwegian municipalities, then ���ǻ�ø narrowly beats Tromsø.

In 2022, ���ǻ�ø's urban area had 42,662 residents, while Tromsø's urban area had just 41,434.

This technicality has sparked , with local media quick to defend their respective cities. Helge Nitteberg, editor of Tromsø newspaper Nordlys, called the analysis hopeless: “It's not just questionable. It is, as we all know, completely wrong.”

However, ���ǻ�ø has clearly grown into a major regional centre in its own right, with thriving commerce, culture, and transport infrastructure.

4. ���ǻ�ø Has Norway's Sixth Busiest Airport

���ǻ�ø Airport plays a vital role in keeping Northern Norway connected, especially in a region where mountains, fjords, and long distances can make road or rail travel impractical.

In 2022, ���ǻ�ø Airport handled over 1.5 million passengers, making it Norway’s sixth busiest. The airport is a major hub for �¾�����ø��, which operates short-hop flights to tiny airstrips scattered across the north in places like Røst, Leknes, and Svolvær.

The airport also offers domestic flights to Oslo and other major cities, along with occasional international connections, particularly in summer.

5. ���ǻ�ø Wants to Move Its Airport, By Less Than 1 km

One of ���ǻ�ø’s most ambitious long-term projects is the relocation of its airport. The new airport will be built less than one kilometre from the existing site, but the move is about far more than just aviation.

The relocation will free up a vast tract of land for urban redevelopment, transforming ���ǻ�ø's layout and allowing for the construction of new homes, offices, green spaces, and cultural venues. It’s a rare chance to reshape an entire section of the city.

The cost is eye-watering. More than NOK 5.7 billion (around $670 million) has been suggested, with government support already committed. If successful, the new airport and surrounding developments could set a benchmark for how to redesign Arctic cities for the 21st century.

6. Saltstraumen Is a Powerful Natural Phenomena

Just a short trip from ���ǻ�ø lies Saltstraumen, the world’s strongest tidal current. Four times a day, nearly 400 million cubic metres of seawater surge through a narrow strait at speeds of up to 20 knots, creating powerful whirlpools and swirling eddies.

It’s an awe-inspiring sight and one of Northern Norway’s top natural attractions. You can experience Saltstraumen from land or on a guided RIB boat trip for a thrilling close-up.

It’s crucial to time your visit correctly. Unlike the Northern Lights, this natural phenomenon runs on a reliable tidal schedule, so you’ll want to plan ahead to see it at peak power.

7. ���ǻ�ø Has a Surprisingly Successful Football Team

Despite its modest population, ���ǻ�ø is home to one of Norway’s top football clubs. FK ���ǻ�ø/Glimt shocked the nation when they won their first-ever Eliteserien title in 2020—and then again in 2021.

Their attacking style and fearless approach drew international attention, especially during a famous night in 2021 when they in the UEFA Europa Conference League.

Aspmyra Stadium may be small and no-frills, but it has hosted European giants and become a fortress for Glimt’s yellow-clad fans. For such a remote city, the club’s success has become a point of enormous local pride.

8. You Can Travel to ���ǻ�ø by Train, But It’s a Long Ride

���ǻ�ø marks the end of the Nordland Line, the northernmost railway line in Norway connected to the main network. The scenic journey from Trondheim to ���ǻ�ø takes around ten hours and crosses the Arctic Circle.

It’s a fantastic way to see Norway’s landscapes change as you head north, with mountains, forests, fjords, and small towns passing by the window.

If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, you can travel all the way from Oslo by train with a connection in Trondheim. But be warned. It’ll take the better part of a day (or a night) and is definitely an experience for the slow travel crowd.

While ���ǻ�ø is the northernmost station on the Norwegian network, it's not the northernmost station in Norway.

Confused? Well, passenger services are available on the iron ore line from Narvik to northern Sweden, but the station isn't connected to the Norwegian network. To get from ���ǻ�ø to Narvik by public transport, you would have to take a bus.

9. ���ǻ�ø Has Some of Norway's Best Chocolate and Pastries

For such a small city, ���ǻ�ø has a remarkably sweet claim to fame. British chocolatier Craig Alibone runs an award-winning chocolate and pâtisserie shop in the city centre, and it’s a must-visit for foodies.

His creations range from artisanal truffles and bonbons to savoury chocolate bars and elegant French-inspired pastries. One bar—flavoured with toasted white chocolate, fennel seeds and cashew nuts—won a bronze award at the International Academy of Chocolate. I've tried it myself, and yes, it's as good as it sounds.

Craig’s success story is also a sign of how far ���ǻ�ø has come. Once a place he described as “not the most appealing,” ���ǻ�ø has grown into a vibrant community with space for creative entrepreneurs to thrive.

I interviewed Craig way back in 2016 when he told me the origin story of the business and what he likes most about living in ���ǻ�ø:

“The nature for a start. It’s a beautiful place and the first time I came up here I was gobsmacked by the surroundings. The growth of the city has been remarkable too. For the first few years, things weren’t happening and it wasn’t the most appealing place to live. But over the last years the city has grown and almost every month it seems there’s something new opening up.”

10. ���ǻ�ø Was Founded as a Northern Rival to Bergen

Unlike many Norwegian towns that grew gradually around farms or fishing hamlets,�����ǻ�ø��was deliberately founded. In 1816, the Danish-Norwegian authorities granted ���ǻ�ø town status as part of a strategic attempt to break��Bergen’s long-standing dominance over northern Norwegian trade.

For centuries, merchants in Bergen controlled much of the commerce along the coast through tightly regulated trading privileges.

By establishing ���ǻ�ø as a recognised market town in the north, the government hoped to stimulate local trade, shorten supply chains, and give northern communities more economic independence.

The plan worked, eventually. But ���ǻ�ø’s early years were anything but smooth, and the city’s position at the edge of established trading systems would soon place it at the centre of international controversy.

11. ���ǻ�ø Was Built on Herring Wealth

Like many coastal towns in Norway, ���ǻ�ø owes much of its early growth to herring. In the 19th century, vast seasonal herring fisheries off the Nordland coast brought sudden wealth, activity, and opportunity to the young town.

Herring was big business. It was salted, barrelled, and exported across Europe, supporting merchants, fishermen, shipbuilders, and seasonal workers.

During peak years, the population of ���ǻ�ø could swell dramatically as people arrived to take part in the fisheries and the associated trade.

Although the herring stocks later declined, the boom years laid the foundations for ���ǻ�ø’s development as a commercial and administrative centre, shaping its harbour, warehouses, and trading culture long before oil, aviation, or military activity came into the picture.

12. ���ǻ�ø Once Sparked an International Smuggling Scandal

In the early 19th century, ���ǻ�ø found itself at the heart of a involving Britain and the Swedish-Norwegian authorities.

Known today as the “���ǻ�ø Affair,” the conflict revolved around smuggling, trade restrictions, and economic desperation in the years following the Napoleonic Wars.

British merchants were accused of illegally trading goods through ���ǻ�ø in order to bypass strict customs regulations. When Norwegian officials seized British ships and cargo, the situation escalated into a prolonged international dispute, with Britain demanding compensation and threatening retaliation.

The affair dragged on for years and ended with Norway paying a substantial settlement, a heavy burden for a poor country at the time.

While largely forgotten today, the episode highlights how strategically important ���ǻ�ø already was, and how its position on the northern coast made it a focal point for trade, tension, and international attention long before it became a modern Arctic city.

10. ���ǻ�ø Was Almost Entirely Rebuilt After World War II

���ǻ�ø’s appearance today—modern, functional, and at times plain—is in large part due to its wartime history. On 27 May 1940, German bombers devastated the city, destroying or severely damaging around 400 of its 600 buildings.

The rebuild came quickly and efficiently in the post-war years, prioritising function over beauty. As a result, ���ǻ�ø lacks the fairytale architecture of cities like Bergen or Ålesund.

But the city has never stood still. In recent years, fresh architecture, urban development projects, and cultural investments have begun to reshape ���ǻ�ø once again, turning it into a modern Arctic capital that embraces both its history and its future.

11. ���ǻ�ø Has One of the World's Largest Populations of White-Tailed Eagles

The rugged coastline and abundant fish stocks around ���ǻ�ø make it a paradise for birdlife—especially the majestic white-tailed eagle. ���ǻ�ø and the surrounding Salten region are among the best places in Europe to see these enormous birds in the wild.

Several boat tours offer eagle safaris where you can see them swooping down to snatch fish from the sea, sometimes just metres from your camera lens.

12. ���ǻ�ø Enjoys the Midnight Sun and Polar Night

Because it lies just north of the Arctic Circle, ���ǻ�ø experiences both the midnight sun in summer and the polar night in winter.

From early June to mid-July, the sun never sets, bathing the city in golden light 24/7. In December and early January, the sun doesn’t rise above the horizon, but it’s not completely dark.

Instead, you’ll experience blue light, long twilights, and sometimes incredible sunrises that linger for hours.

13. ���ǻ�ø is Home to One of Norway's Most Important Military Bases

���ǻ�ø’s strategic location made it a key military site during the Cold War. The city has long hosted a major Royal Norwegian Air Force base, which was a central part of Norway’s NATO defences.

While military activity has been reduced in recent years, the airbase played a big part in shaping ���ǻ�ø’s post-war development and its role in regional infrastructure.

14. The City is a Starting Point for the Coastal Drive ‘Kystriksveien'

���ǻ�ø is the northern end of (the Coastal Route), often considered one of Norway’s most scenic road trips. The 650 km drive winds south along the coast to Steinkjer, taking in ferries, tiny fishing villages, and dramatic mountain scenery.

This shouldn’t be confused with the Hurtigruten or Havila coastal voyages, which follow the sea route. Kystriksveien is entirely land-based, although it does involve short ferry crossings between islands and mainland segments.

Many visitors begin their journey in ���ǻ�ø after arriving by plane, ferry, or train.

15. The Norwegian Aviation Museum is Located in ���ǻ�ø

One of ���ǻ�ø’s standout attractions is the Norwegian Aviation Museum (), the largest aviation museum in Scandinavia and one of the most comprehensive anywhere in Northern Europe.

The museum is housed in a distinctive circular building close to the former airbase, with separate wings dedicated to civil and military aviation.

This layout makes it easy to explore the parallel development of commercial flying and air defence, both of which have played an important role in ���ǻ�ø’s modern history.

Inside, the collection ranges from early Norwegian aircraft and seaplanes to Cold War fighter jets that once patrolled the skies during a period of intense geopolitical tension in the north. Exhibits cover everything from bush flying and rescue operations in harsh Arctic conditions to Norway’s role in NATO air defence.

One of the museum’s most striking features is the preserved control tower, which offers a unique perspective on how air traffic was once managed at this strategically important base.

From here, visitors can look out over the active runway area and gain a real sense of ���ǻ�ø’s long-standing relationship with aviation, both civilian and military.

It’s a museum that works on multiple levels, telling not just the story of aircraft, but of geography, strategy, and life at the edge of Norway’s airspace.

I hope you enjoyed this brief introduction to ���ǻ�ø. Have you visited the city? If so, what did you get up to? Let us know in the comments.

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Norway is packed full of natural wonders. From the epic mountain ranges to the glacial fjords, nature lovers are never short of something to see and do. But there's plenty of hidden surprises too.

The tidal current and whirlpools of Saltstraumen near ���ǻ�ø in Northern Norway is one such example. Water flows through the narrow strait at immense speed, creating a remarkable maelstrom that has to be seen to be believed.

I have to admit I was sceptical the first time I went, but seeing the real thing in person is a truly impressive experience.

I've been twice now at different times of the year. Both times I've been lucky enough to be guided by a local (thanks, Ray!) so didn't have to worry about when to go or where the best places were to see the action.

But for those of you who will be making an independent trip, you'll need to plan to ensure you're there are at the best time, whether you're travelling there over land or by fast RIB boat. This article is for you.

Video of Saltstraumen

Pictures and words don't do the area justice, so on my last visit I made this video. It only takes 60 seconds to watch!

Hopefully that video gave you a better feel for what the area is like when the current is at its strongest. Now, read on for the details.

What is Saltstraumen?

Saltstraumen is a narrow strait that connects the Saltfjord to the large Skjerstadfjord between the islands of Straumøya and Knaplundsøya. At its narrowest, the strait is just 150 metres wide.

With wide bodies of water on both sides, the strait is a major bottleneck for the tidal water. Every six hours, tides push or pull the water through the straight at immense speed, up to 37 kph at its strongest.

The height difference between the two ends of the strait is remarkable. When the tide is at its strongest, the height difference can be up to one metre, and is easily seen by the human eye.

But the area is best known for the distinctive whirlpools created by the fast-flowing water. Constantly changing in shape, they are mesmerising. And also dangerous! These mighty whirlpools can be up to 10 metres in diameter and 4-5 metres deep.

Read more: Saltstraumen in the Winter

The churning water lifts fish and other seafood close to the surface. This attracts great numbers of birdlife to feast on the easy pickings. It's also the likely reason that humans settled here 10,000 years ago, the earliest known settlement in and around ���ǻ�ø.

Where to see the Saltstraumen maelstrom

If you are travelling there on land, there are several great vantage points to appreciate the maelstrom. The two most popular are from the shoreline down from the parking area and on top of the bridge.

The short walk down to the water from the parking lot is very pleasant including several well-kept cabins. At the water's edge, you will immediately see the surprising speed of the water–if you're there at the peak time, of course.

It's also worth looking for the geological features known as giant's kettles. These deep cylindrical holes in rocks were formed during the last ice age by swirling stones in meltwater rivers through the ice.

The old lighthouse provides a raised vantage point, while there's picnic tables to rest and enjoy the view. That view, by the way, is made all the more impressive by the distant mountain peaks.

The second good vantage point is from the top of the bridge. Cars cannot stop on the bridge but there is a footpath along the side of the road, so you'll need to walk from the parking area.

The view from the top of the bridge offers a fantastic perspective of the whirlpools. It's well worth the walk if you have the time.

Saltstraumen bridge

Spanning the strait, the Saltraumen bridge ensures safety for people trying to cross the dangerous water. Prior to its opening in 1978 bridge, ferries had to time their crossings to coincide with weak currents.

The Norwegian Directorate for Cultural Heritage (Riksantikvaren) has since given the bridge protected status.

Wildlife at Saltstraumen

Saltstraumen is famous for its abundant birdlife and marine life. Within the water, good stocks of cod, halibut and monkfish (among others) make it a top choice for fishing in Norway.

Underwater, an incredible diversity of shellfish, crustaceans and coral reefs are waiting to be discovered. But this is no place for inexperienced divers. The same is true for birds. Eiders are the only ones capable of diving for mussels in the strong currents.

Many seabirds swoop down to the water when the maelstrom is at their strongest. The surrounding region is home to magestic sea eagles, puffins and eider ducks, which may be spotted on boat trips. A small whale porpoise is sometimes spotted, too.

Timing of the Saltstraumen maelstrom

If you are going to make the effort to go to Saltstraumen, you should try to visit within an hour of when the current will be at its strongest. As a natural tidal phenomenon, these times are known well in advance.

Every six hours the current is at its strongest, flowing one way or the other. At the midway point when the current changes direction, there isn't a great deal to see–unless you are diving or snorkelling of course.

Check when the current will be at its strongest using the pre-published timetables on . These are very useful when booking boat trips, or planning which bus departures to take.

Boat trips to Saltstraumen

So far I've spoken about visiting the strait on land. It's also possible to visit via boat from ���ǻ�ø. travel to the strait several times per day from the city ferry terminal and also for Hurtigruten visitors.

I haven't taken a RIB boat to Saltstraumen so I can't speak from first hand experience. However, if you visit when the current is strong, it must be an exciting experience. There's also the chance to see intriguing birdlife on the way there.

Do note that regular departures are based on the ideal timetable to visit, so you should always get a good experience. That's not always the case with Hurtigruten tours, as they are by their nature on a fixed timetable. Bear this in mind before you book!

How to get to Saltstraumen by land

As the crow flies, Saltstraumen is just 10km south-east of ���ǻ�ø. However, to get there on land you have to drive 30km. If you don't have a car, several buses per day travel from the city to Saltstraumen, usually numbered 200 or 300.

At the time of writing, it costs NOK 84 for the 45-minute journey. If you download the ticketing app, you save NOK 20. Check the routes, times and prices with .

A taste of Saltstraumen

A local company produces gourmet salt from Saltstraumen using traditional methods. Everything from the production to the drying, sorting, packing and labelling is done by hand.

Local chocolatier Craig Alibone utilises the salt in his signature salt caramel chocolates, featuring a swirl design inspired by the Saltstraumen whirlpools.

The salt can be bought from Arctic Salt's online store and selected stockists around the city, while the chocolate is best enjoyed from in the centre of ���ǻ�ø.

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Government funding of NOK 3.1 billion ($363.8 million) has been announced in the National Transport Plan. The money will support the relocation of ���ǻ�ø airport, as part of one of the biggest ever urban redevelopments in Norway.

NOK 2.5 billion goes to the new airport with NOK 350 million earmarked for the relocation of the rescue helicopter base. Finally, NOK 274 million will go on a road to the new airport.

The plans are impressive, but do they make economic sense? Not everyone thinks so. Let's take a look at the plans for the future of ���ǻ�ø.

Major development in ���ǻ�ø

While much of Northern Norway is struggling with population decline, ���ǻ�ø is gearing up for quite the opposite. ���ǻ�ø is a critical transport hub for the north and city bosses expect significant population growth in the years to come.

With the city set to become a European Capital of Culture in 2024, city bosses want to make the most of their time in the spotlight by pushing through a radical redevelopment plan.

A brand new runway and terminal is to be built less than a kilometre from the existing airport.

The NOK 5.7 billion ($672 million) airport relocation project will free up about as much space as the current city centre of ���ǻ�ø, making room for a substantial expansion of the city and the creation of an entirely new district.

Life after the Air Force

The plans came after the government announced the relocation of the Norwegian Air Force from ���ǻ�ø to Evenes and Ørland.

“There was a vacuum then. Over a thousand government jobs would be lost and we had to find new solutions. The idea of ​​moving the runway had been there several years earlier. We spend a lot of energy on maintaining the old concrete runway, and even if the fighter base had remained in ���ǻ�ø, we would probably have had to build a new runway,” said project manager Håvard Breivik to back in 2018.

Anyone landing at ���ǻ�ø airport will have seen the land between the present airport and the ocean devoted to the air base. The move will leave a lot of this valuable space unused. But because the runway essentially cuts off this land from the rest of the city, the only realistic option for development is to move the airport.

An entire new district for ���ǻ�ø

Local developers have outlined plans for housing, business and industry on the site of the present airport.

“Here we have the chance to build a smart and compact city, with short distances, self-propelled transport and good living environments, plus exciting business areas,” said Venstre's Ida Gudding Johnsen to .

The municipality's ambition is for the first neighbourhood in the new district to become a zero-emission area.

The new airport project is a partner and pilot area in the national research centre . Funded by the Norwegian Research Council, FME ZEN researches zero-emission neighbourhoods in smart cities.

Research work involves building solid expertise on energy and climate, as well as on the interaction between the energy system, buildings and the transport sector.

Criticism of ‘unrealistic' project

Last week, the government announced funding of NOK 3.1 billion ($363.8 million) for the airport project.

But a recent report from Holte Consulting state that none of the options for relocating the airport would come close to being socio-economically profitable. The same report called the base forecast for population growth not realistic.

Skjalg Fjellheim is the political editor for Nordlys, a Norwegian newspaper based in Tromsø. He told that the forecasts of population growth are “probably the closest we get to science fiction in northern Norway in the post-war period.”

To Nettavisen, he elaborated that the project will lead to “massive centralisation” in Nordland: “Instead of wasting so much money on moving a 900-metre runway, it should be easy to find alternative benefits for society. For example, you can put this money into Husbanken to make it attractive for young people to establish themselves all over Nordland.”

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Giorgia joins a group tour to the beaches north of ���ǻ�ø and finds herself learning so much more than she expected about the life and history of Arctic Norway.

My first day in ���ǻ�ø started around 8 o'clock in the morning with an ice storm by the coast, and my persona standing in the very eye of the storm. When I left my hostel it wasn’t raining, so I ventured toward the Hurtigruten pier.

Suddenly round bits of the whitest ice were pouring down like they were being fired from all sides. It was hailing sweetener tablets! I hid my face in my scarf and stood motionless by a tiny cabin right there. 3, 2, 1… Soppy wet.

Read more: Exploring the street art of ���ǻ�ø

Ten minutes later, and it was all gone: the ice rain stopped, the sky brightened up, and it was sunrise. I cautiously left my spot, and headed back toward ����ø�����ٲ� and the city centre. It was still a bit dark, the city half asleep, but the air was crisp and the sky clearing up fast.

I soon found myself in front of the Tourist Office, and ten minutes later I was booked on the three-hour Arctic Walk organised by around beaches north of ���ǻ�ø.

Exploring ���ǻ�ø city on foot

In the morning I had a stroll around the centre, visited the �ٴdz��쾱�������(���ǻ�ø Cathedral) on Torvgata, walked past the (beautiful) library and the (beautiful) concert hall and, finally, made it to the harbour. I went straight to the very tip of the pier, where there’s (also) a colourful lighthouse.

I was there alone, and the pier was all silent but for the noise of the anchored boats quietly rolling in the low waves. The sky was pink, and cast a pinkish hue on all things around. It’s funny how ‘breathtaking’ can sound like an understatement at times.

The side of the pier overlooking the open sea is lined with seven large granite stones��that would look rather ordinary and shapeless if it wasn’t for the large, perfectly round see-through holes drilled through them.

The stones form the installation ��by contemporary artist Tony Cragg.

The work, put in place in 1993, symbolises the close connection between nature and culture, but also the sea and the land. It looks perfectly integrated into the landscape.

A bus tour to the beaches

I stayed at the harbour for as long as I could, till it was time to head back to the Hurtigruten pier, the designated meeting point for the walk. The bus was already there, and so were our two guides, while the other ‘walkers’ were only just getting off the Hurtigruten and approaching the bus.

After a short bus ride it was all nature around us but for a few cabins by the water. Usually I’m not a fan of group visits and group tours, especially when I’m travelling.

Read more:An Introduction to Saltstraumen

I must say, though, that I had a great��time and I learnt a lot��of new things about the Vikings, moose and reindeers, the deepwater coral reef, and seabirds like sea eagles and guillemots, both fairly recurrent sights around ���ǻ�ø. It was great! We visited three beaches in total: ��ø��������첹,��Gravenbukta��and Ausvika.

��ø��������첹

As we walked down ��ø��������첹, our guide pointed out the shells and the corals scattered all over the beach. As she explained, the corals come from the deep-water coral reef��located off Norwegian mainland at a depth of up to 400 metres below sea level. They looked funny, all whitish and vaguely shaped like brains of different sizes. They came from afar.

��ø��������첹 also offers great views of Landegode island, located about 10 km northwest of Bødo. Its characteristic outline becomes quite a familiar sight when you spend a few days in the city.

As we all stood still, staring at Landegode, a seal peeked its round black head out of the water, then it disappeared into the almost waveless sea. It lasted a few seconds, but wow!

Gravenbukta

During the ten minutes’ walk from ��ø��������첹 to Gravenbukta the sun peeked out without warning, and the landscape changed suddenly. It must have been shortly before 2 o’clock, and a timid tinge of orange in the sky suggested that sunset was already on its way.

As for Ausvika, it’s easy to guess why it’s thronged with people when the season allows it.

Ausvika

The beach is nestled in a small bay��whose shape from above looks like a perfect fan. The location is super scenic, kind of similar to Gravenbukta, but more spacious and slightly more remote.

As we left the beach, the final stretch of the tour took us down a path in the grass, partially through sparse trees. We walked past what used to be a burial ground from the age of the Vikings. The tombs had been subsequently looted at some point (hard to tell when), as suggested by the shape of the earth mound, where the Vikings had been buried with their – by now long gone – valuables.

We stopped on a hill where the rocks overlooked the sea. That is when our guides produced two��huge��flasks from their bags, and generously poured boiling hot meadowsweet tea into paper cups��aptly handed around to all of us.

We stood there sipping tea, with the sea and the mountains all around us, while the wind blew hard and the sun prepared to set. Just then a sea eagle thought it’d be nice to fly across the blue sky��just over our heads. It was so beautiful.

We eventually headed back to the bus, which took us back to the pier.

The Norwegian arctic in winter

Before ���ǻ�ø I had never been to the Arctic in winter. I had always wanted to, but I’d never got round to it.

Standing on the beach that afternoon is one of those memories that got instantly and forever engraved in my mind even before it turned into memory at all effects. Blame it on the silvery light, the light blue-greyish water, snowy Landegode, the sea eagle, and the seal.

There are times when everything looks perfect and mesmerising as it is.

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A walking of ���ǻ�ø's surprising amount of urban artwork.

If there’s one thing you can’t help noticing, it’s that street art is a thing in ���ǻ�ø.

Why? Well, in 2015 ���ǻ�ø was home to the UpNorth Festival, an urban art festival that first took place (also in 2015) in Sulitjelma, and it drew so much attention and interest that the experiment was replicated, also successfully, in ���ǻ�ø.

In and near the centre there are five main pieces you don’t want to miss out on. They’re all equally monumental and truly beautiful. There’s no specific order to follow to track them down. As long as you know where to find them, you can easily zig zag your way around as you wish.

So let’s go have a look!

Phlegm

I started from the street called ����ø�����ٲ�, one of the two ‘high streets’ in ���ǻ�ø. Walk down ����ø�����ٲ� from the train station, and keep to the left-hand side of the street. When you reach number 18, stop and turn around. You’re likely to see it just there. What? Well, it’s not that��easy to explain. The work is called Phlegm��and the author is a British artist by the same name.

The artist’s works are almost exclusively monochrome. They look like they’re out of a storybook, and Phlegm��is no exception. Entirely painted in black and white, it’s a gigantic half-human half-animal creature��whose potentially scary effect owes more to its size than to its looks.

In fact, it is stunning, and the technique used makes it look like a large-scale pencil drawing. Take a closer look and see for yourself!

Golden Eagle

Keep walking down ����ø�����ٲ�, and by the time you reach Tollbugata 13��(which runs parallel to ����ø�����ٲ�), you will be already staring in awe at the Golden Eagle by Belgian artist Dzia.

Painted on the wall right next to the Tourist Office, it displays the graphic, kind of geometric style of its author. Its dynamic pose and penetrating gaze, though, are as powerful as they can get.

I read that the artist ‘paints quickly and in situ to ensure that the original idea remains true to its form’. I can only imagine what he can do when he takes his time.

�Ѳ������ٰ�ø��

The next stop is also not very far from Tollbugata. The easiest way to get there is by going back to ����ø�����ٲ� and walking to the very end of the street. At that point turn left and, just when the street starts going uphill and curving to the left, stop and look right. That’s

Soløybuilding��(Moloveien 20), and there, on the wall, is Spanish artist David de la Mano’s �Ѳ������ٰ�ø��.

If one had to give a verysimplistic description of this work, it would be ‘a vortex of stick men with root-like feet’, or something along those lines.

In fact, the ‘crowd’ of black silhouettes that float all over the façade deserves more than that. The slender figures look like they’ve just been blown away by a strong current��they couldn’t resist.

A kiss between cultures

At Moloveien 20 you’re super close to stop number four. Keep �Ѳ������ٰ�ø��behind you, and walk around the block of buildings in front of you. For example, cross over and take Dronningens gate (to the left of the building). The first street on your right will be Sandgata, so turn right there, reach number 6��and…

Yes, you’ll be standing in one of the most nondescript spots in the whole of ���ǻ�ø. But that also happens to be the location of A kiss between cultures by Argentinian illustrator and designer Animalito (aka Graciela Gonçalves Da Silva).

Her mural has much in common with cartoons and videogames, and it portrays the most spontaneous human gesture of love. The scene exudes such a genuine sweetness that it will be hard to suppress a smile��as you look at it.

And, yes, the car park where the graffiti was painted isindeed as ordinary as a car park can get, yet the colours��of the mural brighten up the whole place.

Insomnia

We’re nearing the end of this walking tour around street art works in ���ǻ�ø, and the next is not the easiest to spot��– at least, it took me��a while to realise how and where exactly to find it. The address is technically Storgata 30, but I believe it’s easier to get there another way.

From Sandgata 6 just go back the way you came, turn right into Dronningens gate, and keep going straight. Turn left into Havnegata (the third street come across), and then keep an eye on your left.

You have to enter the small car park that’s right there (this spot is called Tjærandsengården). The mural is on one of the walls overlooking the car park, and you can’t��see it from the street.

Insomnia, by Italian artist Millo (born Francesco Camillo Giorgino), is a large-scale scene of ordinary, everyday life. I read that in his works Millo uses mostly black and white with touches of bright colours here and there.

One of my favourite things is how he manages to paint such a hugemural, yet make it look like he has jotted it down on a post-it without even having that much time to ‘do it properly’. Obviously, it’s perfect as it is.

After School

Okay, I’ve saved my favourite for last. After School, by Russian artist Rustam QBic, is a bit further away from all the other artworks we’ve talked about so far. Go back to Havnegata and walk up the street till you get to Kongens gate, where you have to turn left and just keep going for about five minutes or so.

The address is Kongens gate 20, but you will know when you get there. I mean, it’s a little girl painting the northern lights with a spray can, how can you miss it?

It really is as stunning as the photo suggests: beautiful and superb technique wise. I won’t even go as far as describing the subject in detail, so poetic it is without adding unnecessary extra words to it.

There is a lot more to street art in ���ǻ�ø than the six murals I have described.

For one thing, there are more of the large-scale kind, which I missed out on due to lack of time to explore the city and the simple fact that I didn’t come across them and didn’t know their exact location.

Plus, aside from the larger pieces, there are loads of smaller, seemingly casual works��you might spot here and there around the centre. One of them is a ���ǻ�ø sign which includes the outline of a sea eagle.

Why? Because ���ǻ�ø is��a city of sea eagles!��But that is another story.

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