Beyond Norway Archives - 51Թ /travel/beyond/ All Things Norway, In English Thu, 19 Mar 2026 06:19:30 +0000 en-US hourly 1 A Budget Trip to Gdańsk, Poland /budget-trip-to-gdansk-poland/ /budget-trip-to-gdansk-poland/#respond Thu, 19 Mar 2026 06:19:27 +0000 /?p=85332 The post A Budget Trip to Gdańsk, Poland appeared first on 51Թ.

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A spontaneous 24-hour trip from Trondheim to Gdańsk cost just NOK 1,000, but delivered powerful history museums and one of Europe’s most atmospheric old towns in its winter coat.

Gdańsk’s Old Town feels almost theatrical on first encounter. Tall, narrow merchant houses line cobbled streets, church towers rise improbably high above the rooftops, and the Motława river curves past warehouses and cranes that hint at centuries of maritime trade.

Gdansk old town and the frozen river. Photo: David Nikel.
Gdansk old town and the frozen river. Photo: David Nikel.

In winter, with snow on the ground and ice edging the water, it feels even more atmospheric. This was my introduction to Gdańsk, a city I had barely considered visiting until I stumbled across a remarkably cheap flight.

I had just 24 hours. From Trondheim to Gdańsk and back, including flights, transport, and a high-quality hotel in the heart of the Old Town, the total cost came in at approximately 1,000 Norwegian kroner.

That alone made the trip feel like a small victory, but what surprised me most was just how much I managed to see and experience in such a short time.

A Personal Reason To Go

My grandfather was Polish, and although I have always been curious about his homeland, I have only visited Poland once before. When I spotted direct Wizz Air flights from Trondheim to Gdańsk for around NOK 360 return, I didn’t hesitate. It was an instant booking.

Flying with an ultra low-cost carrier does mean compromises. In my case, I was limited to a small under-seat bag, but for a one-night trip that was no problem at all. The bigger downside was the flight schedule.

An 8.20am departure from Trondheim Airport Værnes was manageable, but the return flight left Gdańsk at 5.40am the following morning. Painful, yes, but it would get me back to Trondheim early enough to be at my desk before 9am.

The outbound flight was surprisingly comfortable. I hadn’t paid for seat selection or priority boarding, yet ended up with an empty seat next to me.

Waterfront of Gdansk in the winter. Photo: David Nikel.
Gdansk was in the grip of winter during my visit. Photo: David Nikel.

The flight was just over half full and mostly Polish, which immediately made it feel like a route serving locals rather than tourists.

First Stop: Modern Polish History

Rather than heading straight into the city centre, I took an Uber from the airport to the , around 20 minutes away. With limited time, my plan was to start outside the Old Town and walk my way in.

Polish history beyond the Second World War was something of a blind spot for me, but as a cruise ship destination speaker working on Baltic itineraries, I knew this was a subject I needed to understand better.

The European Solidarity Centre turned out to be one of the most impressive modern history museums I’ve visited in a long time.

The museum tells the story of DZ岹Դść, the worker-led trade union movement that emerged in Gdańsk in the 1980s and played a crucial role in the collapse of communist rule in Poland.

The building itself is striking, industrial in feel and deliberately evocative of shipyard architecture. Inside, the exhibition is rich and immersive, with archive footage, original documents, soundscapes, and carefully chosen imagery.

Exterior of European Solidarity Centre in Gdansk, Poland. Photo: David Nikel.
Exterior of European Solidarity Centre in Gdansk, Poland. Photo: David Nikel.

An excellent audio guide is available in two versions, a full 2.5-hour tour and a shorter 1.5-hour option. I opted for the abridged version, which still gave a strong sense of the movement’s scale, courage, and lasting impact.

It is a thoughtful, quietly powerful museum that avoids triumphalism while still leaving you with a sense of hope.

The Weight of the Second World War

Around a 20-minute walk away is the , housed in another bold piece of architecture.

Much of the museum lies deep underground, and while it is not literally a bunker, the descent into the exhibition space adds to the emotional weight of the experience.

This is not a museum you rush through. It takes a comprehensive look at the war, with a particular focus on Poland and the civilian experience, while also placing events in a wider global context.

The balance between factual explanation and personal stories is handled exceptionally well.

Exhibit in the Second World War Museum in Gdansk. Photo: David Nikel.
The Museum of the Second World War in Gdansk makes a powerful impression. Photo: David Nikel.

It feels strange to talk about “highlights” in a museum like this, but many of the exhibits are deeply affecting.

The sheer scale of suffering, displacement, and destruction is laid bare in a way that is at times uncomfortable and upsetting, but also essential. You come away with a clearer understanding not just of what happened, but of how profoundly it shaped modern Europe.

Taken together, the European Solidarity Centre and the Second World War Museum tell a story of immense trauma followed, decades later, by resilience and renewal.

If I were to do it again, I might reverse the order and visit the war museum first, then end on the more hopeful note of Solidarity. But with only a day to spare, logistics won out.

Entering the Old Town of Gdansk

As I continued my walk towards the Old Town, the city slowly transformed. Streets became narrower, the buildings taller, and the atmosphere more enclosed in the best possible way.

Then, almost suddenly, I was surrounded by what felt like a chocolate-box version of a historic European city.

Długi Targ in Old Gdańsk in the winter. Photo: David Nikel.
Długi Targ in Old Gdańsk in the winter. Photo: David Nikel.

The Motława river was partially frozen, which came as a surprise and neatly explained why Baltic cruises are very much a summer affair. Snow covered the squares and rooftops, adding to the sense of being somewhere slightly unreal.

The weather was colder than I expected. When I left Trondheim that morning it was minus sixteen degrees, dropping to around minus thirteen later in the day. In Gdańsk it was only minus two, but the damp air made it feel almost as cold.

Trondheim’s dry winter cold is far more forgiving. I was grateful I had packed my warmest clothes.

Staying in the Heart of the City

I checked in to the , a modern hotel tucked neatly into the Old Town.

My room overlooked Długi Targ, the city’s famous main street, and the view alone justified the choice. Watching the street slowly fill with people as evening approached was a highlight in itself.

Architecturally, this part of Gdańsk is fascinating. The style is often described as Northern European or Hanseatic, reflecting the city’s long history as a major trading port within the Hanseatic League.

View of Długi Targ from the Radisson Blu Gdansk. Photo: David Nikel.
View of Długi Targ from the Radisson Blu Gdansk. Photo: David Nikel.

If parts of it reminded me of Riga and Tallinn, that’s no coincidence. All three cities share this merchant-city heritage, though Gdańsk feels a little grander and more monumental in places.

Churches, Food, and Evening Light

St Mary’s Church dominates the Old Town skyline, and stepping inside is genuinely jaw-dropping. The interior is vast and soaring, taller than you expect, though more restrained in decoration than many southern European churches.

You can pay to climb the tower for views over the city, but with the temperature dropping and fatigue setting in, I saved that for a future summer visit.

Finding somewhere to eat was effortless. Gdańsk offers everything from traditional Polish pierogi to international comfort food, and prices were refreshingly reasonable. After dinner, I headed back out to explore as the city lit up.

Across the river, the former warehouse district has been redeveloped into a lively strip of bars and restaurants. It was busy even on a cold winter evening and offered some of the best photo opportunities of the trip, looking back towards the illuminated Old Town.

Other Things To Do in Gdansk

With more time, there is plenty I would have added. Amber is a big deal in Gdańsk, thanks to the Baltic Sea’s rich amber deposits, and the city is known as the world capital of amber craftsmanship. There is even an amber museum dedicated to it.

In summer, boat trips along the river and out towards the coast are popular, and there are numerous smaller museums that would be worth exploring. This was very much a reconnaissance trip rather than a comprehensive visit.

Back to Reality

The downside of a 24-hour budget trip is the early morning alarm. A pre-booked Uber collected me around 4.15am and took me to the airport just over an hour before departure. Security was surprisingly busy, so the extra buffer was welcome.

Boarding began at 5.05am and we left on time, landing early in Trondheim. I was back at my desk in the city centre by 9am, working on videos through very bleary eyes.

This was my first visit to Gdańsk and my first experience flying with Wizz Air. I would happily do both again. For short trips, the value is hard to beat, even once you factor in baggage costs.

Unfortunately, Trondheim–Gdańsk is the only Wizz Air route from my local airport, but travellers based in Oslo or Bergen have more options.

I’ll be back in Gdańsk twice this summer, docking in nearby Gdynia while on Baltic Sea itineraries. Next time, I plan to slow down, climb that church tower, and see the city in a very different season.

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A Weekend in Aarhus, Denmark /aarhus-denmark/ /aarhus-denmark/#comments Mon, 09 Mar 2020 08:51:06 +0000 /?p=40272 The post A Weekend in Aarhus, Denmark appeared first on 51Թ.

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Looking for a weekend away from Norway? Aarhus is easy to get to from Oslo and packed with cultural attractions, yet with none of the Copenhagen crowds.

After many years travelling Norway and literally writing the book on it, I've started to look farther afield. Not too far, mind! I'm now on a mission to explore the best of Scandinavia and to see how it compares to Norway.

Canal scene in Aarhus, Denmark

I've already been to the other capitals, Stockholm and Copenhagen, so now I'm looking elsewhere including Scandinavia's second cities.

With its status of European Capital of Culture in 2017 leaving a lasting legacy begging to be explored, Aarhus was the obvious place to start.

“Little Copenhagen” without the crowds

I spent three days exploring the city. My first impression? The city has a similar feel to Copenhagen in terms of feel and things to do. But, there’s a crucial difference, Aarhus is much less crowded!

However, Denmark’s second largest city stands apart. There’s genuinely unique museums, a thriving dining scene, modern architecture, and space to breathe.

Danish architecture & design

Fans of Scandinavian design are sure to love the city. There's plenty of curious buildings to see, from historic homes to modern architecture that divides opinion.

The Latin Quarter is the city's oldest district, dating back to the 1500s. Here you'll find a low, dense area with narrow, curved streets.

calls the city a design lover's paradise, with “historic homes dating back to the 18th century, midcentury modern architecture, independent boutiques selling goods by local makers, and a massive new waterfront neighborhood anchored by futuristic apartment buildings.”

One notable example of the modern architecture can be found in the emerging Docklands neighbourhood. This is  (The Iceberg):

Modern residential apartment building in Aarhus, Denmark
Isbjerget (The Iceberg) in Aarhus, Denmark.

A team of architects including JDS Architects and CEBRA teamed up with Dutch studio SeARCH and French architect Louis Paillard on the project.

Inside, over 200 apartments are in four L-shaped wings of the complex, including two-storey townhouses and penthouses. More examples of interesting architecture–both historic and modern–can be seen at each of the next three sights.

Den Gamle By

If modern angular lines aren’t your thing, how about buildings from hundreds of years ago instead? If so, head to , the Aarhus old town.

However, this isn’t a old district of Aarhus. Rather, this outdoor museum is a collection of houses moved here from across Aarhus and other parts of Denmark. But that doesn’t make it any less authentic or less interesting.

You can wander the streets to absorb the atmosphere and learn about how things used to be, all in one place.

Inside Aarhus Old Town museum. Photo: David Nikel.
Inside Aarhus Old Town museum. Photo: David Nikel.

If that doesn’t sound like it’s worth the 150 DKK entry fee, well you’d be right. But, there’s far more than meets the eye here.

First things first, one of the buildings serves as an entrance to a large subterranean museum. Down here, you’ll learn about the history of the city from its days as a Viking settlement to the modern day.

Read More: Fun Facts About Denmark

The old town also plays host to several other small museums, all included in the entrance ticket. There’s a Toy Museum, Gallery of Decorative Arts and the Danish Poster Museum.

There’s also a fantastic little cafe, which serves traditional Danish food of a far better quality than I would have expected from such a major tourist trap. The restaurant was under refurbishment when I visited, but I’m confident that will be well worth a visit once it’s back open.

ARoS: Aarhus Art Museum

In the big party year of 2017, almost one million people visited Aarhus Art Museum (ARoS). Since then, the popularity of ARoS hasn't dropped off.

One of the reasons is the perched on the building's roof. This curious attraction offers 360-degree views of the city through an ever-changing array of colours as you walk around.

People inside the rainbow panorama skywalk in Aarhus, Denmark
Walking through ‘Your Rainbow Panorama', Aarhus Art Museum (Olafur Eliasson 2006-2011)

Many visitors–including me, I have to say!–take the elevator straight to the tenth floor to enjoy the panorama. But there's loads more to see, so allow plenty of time.

The permanent exhibition Human Nature curates work that presents the history of art through the prism of the meaning of life. Another star attraction, Ron Mueck’s giant Boy, is presented in a squatting pose inspired by the aboriginal people of Australia from the artist’s home nation.

Moesgaard Museum

Next on my list was this regional archaeology museum. One thing to note straight up, the is located well out of town.

It's a 25-minute bus ride away from central Aarhus, but the system is pretty easy to work out. Buses were frequent and I bought tickets using the mobile app. I'm sure that the tourist office or your hotel receptionist can help out if you struggle.

Was it worth the struggle? Yes! The museum is another of Aarhus' architectural stars. Recalling the Oslo Opera House, its sloping roof rises out of the grassy field.

The exterior of Moesgaard Museum in Aarhus, Denmark
The exterior of Moesgaard Museum in Aarhus, Denmark.

Inside, prehistory and anthropology take centre stage, with stories enhanced by recent discoveries and modern technology.

For example, virtual reality glasses enhance the experience of the Stone Age hunting room. You can also touch a real Viking runestone and participate–virtually of course–in an Iron Age battle.

A cold wind blows from the north and the landscape is bare, with only low, hardy plants as far as the eye can see. This is the view that meets the family when they open their tent flaps, letting in the pale sunlight. They look out over an endless hilly landscape, cut through by a valley. Their eyes search the horizon for herds of reindeer. They are reindeer hunters, and they lie patiently in wait.

I was also able to experience an informative temporary exhibition on the Pompeii disaster. This was super interesting but it's only available until 10 May, 2020, so you don't have a lot of time if you want to catch it.

Dokk1

Back in Aarhus, another curious development to check out is Dokk1. Perhaps you can guess from the name, this public library and cultural centre is located on the city's waterfront at the former industrial port.

Others know better than me, but I've heard the architectural style described as “neo-futuristic.”

explains the building's design as: “a heptagonal metal disc floating above a glass prism which rests on a bed of wide irregular staircases to all sides. The metal disc holds offices and administration while the glass prism houses the public library, designed to be transparent to all sides and making all activities within visible from the outside.”

Dokk 1 waterfront public library cultural centre in Aarhus, Denmark
Dokk 1 waterfront public library cultural centre in Aarhus, Denmark.

This design also gives those inside the building a view of the harbour, wider bay area, forest or the city depending on where they are.

When visiting Aarhus, Dokk1 is a good place to aim for if planning a wander through the city from the downtown area. To the north of the development, a new residential neighbourhood (Aarhus Ø) is coming together, which reminds me of Oslo's Sørenga.

How to get to Aarhus from Norway

Compared to Norway, Denmark is super small and compact, so you don't need to fly all the way to Aarhus. Regular intercity trains serve Aarhus Central Station from both the Danish capital and its international airport. Copenhagen is easy to reach from most big Norwegian airports in just one flight.

You can also choose to fly to Aarhus, although the airport is located around a 35-minute taxi ride or 50-minute bus ride away. The departure lounge of the airport is notable for its unique appearance that more resembles a furniture store than an airport.

Regular planes serve Copenhagen, but there's also a direct service, albeit not very frequent, to Oslo.

Where to stay in Aarhus

I stayed at the , which turned out to be integrated into the Aarhus Congress Centre.

For what’s obviously a business hotel, the price was reasonable. I had an issue with my room that meant I needed to switch rooms and this was dealt with quickly and professionally.

Of course, there's plenty of other options to suit all price ranges. The was one downtown hotel that seemed to be very well located. Meanwhile at the lower end, the offers 315 simple, affordable yet central rooms with rates around 30% lower than the better-known chain hotels.

I haven't stayed there myself, but it's worth checking out. One thing to watch out for is that the breakfast buffet is optional and costs an additional 90 Danish kroner. At that price, you're probably better off plumping for a coffee shop breakfast instead, depending on how you like to start your day.

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A Journey Through Iceland’s Wild Westfjords /iceland-westfjords/ /iceland-westfjords/#respond Tue, 19 Jun 2018 07:30:58 +0000 /?p=22635 The post A Journey Through Iceland’s Wild Westfjords appeared first on 51Թ.

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Iceland is best known for its volcanoes, glaciers, and geothermal hot springs. But in the country’s far northwest lies a fjord region that feels surprisingly familiar to Norwegians, yet different enough to feel like a revelation.

The Westfjords are rugged, remote, and deeply scenic, offering dramatic mountains, long fjords, and a sense of space that is increasingly rare in Europe.

The landscape of Iceland's Westfjords. Photo: David Nikel.
The landscape of Iceland's Westfjords. Photo: David Nikel.

If you ever find yourself thinking you have seen all the fjords Norway has to offer, a short flight west might change your mind.

Many Norwegians head south in search of sunshine rather than west in search of wild landscapes, and that is a shame. Norway is extraordinary, of course, but Iceland offers a rawness and geological clarity that feels almost elemental.

The Westfjords, in particular, strip the landscape back to its essentials.

Icelandair has spent years promoting stopovers between North America and Europe, and it seems to be working. On this trip, I encountered more American travellers than any other nationality, even in places that felt extraordinarily remote.

My own visit was brief and work-focused, which limited how much I could explore.

Still, it was long enough to get a strong sense of what defines the Westfjords. This is not the Iceland of bubbling hot springs and . Instead, it is a region shaped by mountains, fjords, and isolation.

Ísafjörður: Gateway to the Westfjords

The journey began in Ísafjörður, the largest town in the Westfjords and the region’s informal capital. To save both keystrokes and sanity, I will refer to it as Isafjordur from here on.

Isafjordur town in Iceland. Photo: David Nikel.
Isafjordur town in Iceland. Photo: David Nikel.

The setting is instantly striking. Nestled at the end of a narrow fjord and surrounded by steep mountains, Isafjordur immediately reminded me of small towns in Norway’s Lofoten Islands. The scale is similar, but the landscape feels barer, more exposed.

Inside the airport terminal, a small but thoughtful exhibition introduces visitors to the area’s history. Archive photographs of seaplanes line the walls, alongside artwork depicting local life and industry.

Image in Ísafjörður Airport. Photo: David Nikel.
Image in Ísafjörður Airport. Photo: David Nikel.

It is a clever use of a modest space and an early signal that this is a region proud of its past.

From above, the town looks almost impossibly compact. The airport runway hugs the fjord’s edge, squeezed between sea and mountain. That runway would soon become one of the most memorable parts of the trip.

Despite its size, Isafjordur functions as the hub of north-west Iceland. It has daily flights to Reykjavík, several hotels, restaurants, supermarkets, a petrol station, and even a small football ground. Everything you need is here, but nothing feels excessive.

Isafjordur town centre in Iceland. Photo: David Nikel.
Isafjordur town centre in Iceland. Photo: David Nikel.

Still, Isafjordur is rarely the final destination. For most visitors, it is simply the starting point.

On the Road in the Westfjords

Once you leave town, the character of the Westfjords reveals itself quickly. The roads cling to fjord edges, snake over mountain passes, and frequently dissolve into gravel and dirt.

At first, the scenery feels comfortably familiar to anyone who knows Norway’s fjords. Then something starts to feel different. It took me a while to realise what it was.

Westfjords scenery in Iceland. Photo: David Nikel.
Driving the Iceland Westfjords. Photo: David Nikel.

There are almost no trees.

It sounds obvious in hindsight, but the absence is striking. I only noticed it properly when trying to explain the landscape to a colleague back home.

A single isolated tree stood out so dramatically that it suddenly explained everything. The Westfjords feel more open, more exposed, and more ancient as a result.

Car by the side of the road with snow in the background. Photo: David Nikel.
Driving in the remote Westfjords in Iceland, in the summer! Photo: David Nikel.

The roads themselves are part of the experience. They are rough in places, narrow, and occasionally unforgiving. At the rental car desk, the clerk offered some reassurance: “Here in Iceland, we don’t worry about scratches. You’re going to get them.”

Despite the conditions, or perhaps because of them, driving here is a joy. Every bend reveals a new fjord, a different rock formation, or a distant snow-covered ridge. Even in mid-June, patches of snow and ice linger on the mountains.

Colourful mountains of Iceland. Photo: David Nikel.
Colourful mountains of Iceland. Photo: David Nikel.

The landscape is far from monotonous. Layers of exposed rock create dramatic patterns in the mountainsides, while mosses, grasses, snow, and stone combine into a muted but beautiful colour palette.

Arnarfjörður and Hrafnseyri

Our destination was Arnarfjörður, one of the quietest fjords in the region. Human presence here is minimal. Apart from a temporary construction camp linked to a road tunnel project, there are almost no settlements.

The only permanent village is Hrafnseyri, best known as the birthplace of Jón Sigurðsson, the leading figure in Iceland’s independence movement against Danish rule.

The shoreline of the Arnarfjörður in Iceland's westfjords. Photo: David Nikel.
The shoreline of the Arnarfjörður in Iceland's westfjords. Photo: David Nikel.

Today, the site consists of a small museum, a handful of buildings, and a campsite, all set against a backdrop of sweeping fjord scenery.

Nearby, a rough mountain road suitable only for four-wheel-drive vehicles leads to a high-altitude lake. From there, the view back across Arnarfjörður is spectacular, a wide sweep of water framed by steep, empty mountains.

Time was limited, and most of the trip was tightly scheduled. Still, our hosts insisted on one short detour, and it was impossible to argue.

Dynjandi: The Westfjords’ Most Famous Waterfall

Dynjandi is one of Iceland’s most celebrated waterfalls, and it earns that reputation easily. From the car park, it looks impressive. Up close, it is overwhelming.

The spectacular Dynjandi waterfall is a highlight of an Iceland road trip around the Westfjords

Rather than a single vertical drop, Dynjandi cascades down a broad cliff face in a series of steps, widening as it descends like a natural amphitheatre of water. Photographs struggle to capture both its scale and its power.

Strompgljufrafoss in Iceland. Photo: David Nikel.
Strompgljufrafoss in Iceland. Photo: David Nikel.

To truly appreciate it, you need to climb the path to the top of the falls. The ascent is steep and uneven, with loose stones underfoot. I lost count of the steps somewhere along the way, but it was enough to guarantee a sweat.

The spectacular Dynjandi waterfall in the west fjords of Iceland.
The spectacular Dynjandi waterfall in the west fjords of Iceland.

For those unwilling or unable to make the full climb, the walk is still worthwhile. Several smaller waterfalls line the path, each impressive in its own right, and the main cascade becomes more dramatic with every metre gained.

Getting There: A Flight to Remember

For all the scenery on the ground, my strongest memory of the trip may be the flight from Reykjavík to Isafjordur.

The landing is famous among pilots. The aircraft approaches low through the fjord, flying uncomfortably close to the mountainside before banking sharply in a 180-degree turn on final approach. Only small turboprop aircraft are capable of using the short runway.

Reaching the domestic airport adds another layer of complexity. Almost all international flights arrive at Keflavík, nearly 50 kilometres from Reykjavík. Domestic flights, however, depart from the much smaller airport close to the city centre.

Air Iceland Connect flight at Ísafjörður Airport. Photo: David Nikel.
Air Iceland Connect flight at Ísafjörður Airport. Photo: David Nikel.

Confusingly, this airport is sometimes referred to as Reykjavík International Airport, as it also serves flights to Greenland and the Faroe Islands. For first-time visitors, the naming alone can be enough to cause frustration.

Still, minor logistical annoyances fade quickly once you are airborne.

Seeing the Westfjords on an Iceland Cruise

For travellers who want the drama of Iceland’s fjords without the challenge of driving long distances, cruising offers a scenic and surprisingly practical way to experience the Westfjords.

Ísafjörður is one of the few regular cruise ports in the region and has become an increasingly popular call on expedition-style and Northern Europe itineraries during the summer season.

Cruise lines including Norwegian Cruise Line, MSC Cruises, Holland America Line, Celebrity Cruises, Royal Caribbean, and Seabourn feature Ísafjörður on .

These range from full circumnavigations of the island to longer voyages linking Iceland with destinations such as the Faroe Islands, Greenland, and occasionally Norway.

When ships dock in Ísafjörður, they usually berth close to the town centre, making it easy to explore on foot. Passengers can wander the historic harbour area, visit cafés and the Westfjords Heritage Museum, or join shore excursions to highlights such as Dynjandi waterfall.

For many visitors, a cruise offers an appealing way to sample the Westfjords’ wild scenery alongside other parts of Iceland, particularly when time is limited or overland travel feels daunting.

A Region Worth the Effort

The Westfjords demand more time and patience than many parts of Iceland. Distances are deceptive, roads are slow, and weather can be unpredictable. But the reward is a sense of space and solitude that is increasingly rare.

This was a short visit, and it barely scratched the surface. Even so, it left a strong impression. I only wish I had more time to explore Reykjavík, the rest of the Westfjords, and more of the island beyond. Next summer, perhaps.

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From Norway to Southeast Asia /southeast-asia-travel/ /southeast-asia-travel/#respond Sun, 25 Mar 2018 07:40:47 +0000 /?p=21576 The post From Norway to Southeast Asia appeared first on 51Թ.

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Southeast Asia Travel

With two direct connections from Oslo to Bangkok, dodging a Norwegian winter for a tropical escape is a very tempting proposition.

But truth be told, what do Norwegians really know about the pulsating megalopolis at the center of mainland Southeast Asia?

Besides a few Hollywood movies (one gave Bangkok the stereotypical titles of “Dangerous”, and the other highlighted it as a very bad place for a bachelor party), most Europeans know very little about this city. And when it comes to the charismatic region around it, that extends from the Chinese border all the way to Australia, they are completely in the dark.

Temple in Thailand

Why visit Southeast Asia from Norway?

Southeast Asia — of which Bangkok, together with Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia and Singapore, is a major travel hub — has developed into one of the world’s most visited regions by Americans, British and Australians. It’s an ever-steaming tropical landscape filled with incredible coastlines, alluring islands, viridian mountains and century-old history that remains in the intricate temples surrounded by thick jungle.

On the contrary of what most Europeans believe, Southeast Asia is vibrant, modern (in some cases, even more than Europe itself) and very, very safe for travellers. And the best part is, it’s a perfect gateway to visit when Europe, and in particular Norway and Scandinavia, is blanketed by snow and battered by frostbite.

At last, it’s cheap. Too cheap for a Norwegian to muster: to give you an example, a street side stall in Southeast Asia will sell you a complete, delicious meal for about 1 euro. A night’s accommodation for two in an exclusive boutique hotel will rarely cost more than 40/50 euros, while on the bottom end of the spectrum, a backpacker dorm will set you back around 5 euros per night.

Fruits in Thailand

Now, without being masters of mathematics, it’s quite clear that to Norwegians, Southeast Asia may as well sound like a bit of a promised land of the incredibly cheap.

And that’s not just my imagination: I have recently met a few Norwegian men in the Andaman Coast region of Southern Thailand. They had braved a 1000-odd-km ride from Bangkok to come enjoy the quieter beaches of idyllic islands like Ko Chang Noi. “Why stay in Norway when it’s so depressing and cold?”

They proudly said that they usually come to Thailand for a few months every year. In other words, choosing to work in Norway during the summer, these guys prefer to spend the coldest months in their swimming trunks… in Thailand.

Southeast Asia 101: Know Before you go

But again, in a region with 10-odd nations, there’s much more to see than “Thailand” (a word that has sadly taken the connotation of an “El Dorado” all across Europe). In this article, I will try to give some first-timer suggestions to spend two weeks visiting some of Southeast Asia’s highlights from Bangkok.

You can certainly trust me: , am married to a local Malaysian Chinese woman, and have written about the region for some of the world’s best travel media.

Penang beach

Basic medical advice

I want to give you a quick lowdown to crush some Asia travel myths, especially given that these days, most urban cities in Southeast Asia are much more developed than most European cities.

For example, the island of where I live in Malaysia has become one of Asia’s most sought-after medical tourism destinations, thanks to the high quality of its private hospitals.

For this reason, please DON’T LISTEN to the advice of most European doctors, especially those who have never travelled abroad. If they recommend you take anti-malarial tablets to come to Southeast Asia — and especially Thailand — don’t listen to them. It’s just very outdated information, for the risk is absolutely minimal in 100% of the places that general tourists visit.

You will NOT NEED any vaccination that is not one, like typhoid, that you’d probably want to have anyways. So travel safe, because unless you plan to spend long time in the jungles of some very remote Indonesian islands, you’ll be extremely fine.

Food & drink

Yes it’s true, it may take a bit of adaptation to the smells and spiciness of most Southeast Asian food – but the cuisine is so zesty and varied that some return to the region just to gorge on more of that delicious food.

Penang food

Street food vendors — hawkers, in jargon — may look like dirty, but cook the freshest and most authentic food. For squeamish stomachs, every town and city has better mid-range options which, even if more expensive, to a Norwegian will still look like they are free.

Safety in the region

Most of the region is perfectly safe to travel, probably even more than Europe. Thanks to the local beliefs, largely Buddhism or Islam, hurting others is particularly frowned upon, and thus episodes of violence against tourists are extremely rare.

Yes, someone killed two young backpackers on Koh Tao, and at times there is underworld-related crime. But in general, using normal precautions, you will be perfectly fine. Consider also that Southeast Asians still consider white people to be somehow “higher” and more respected than themselves, and that public showing of anger or confrontation is the opposite of their nature.

Keep a low profile, don’t raise your voice, be polite, and the good karma will shine upon you.

A two week itinerary

This itinerary mixes a bit of everything, from cities to beaches and nature, and is one of my personal favorites. Please consider that I am not a big party guy, love nature and quiet more than partying, and always try to avoid touristy places.

Monks southeast Asia

I have of course considered that it’s probably your first time to Southeast Asia, and you want to enjoy some beaches, given that back home in Norway it’s cold and dark most of the year. In all honesty, two weeks is not a long time to visit the region.

I still tried to think of a multi-country itinerary that covers three nations (Thailand, Cambodia and Malaysia) and can be completed mostly overland — Thailand and Malaysia  have excellent .

At last, I tried to include mega-cities, incredible ancient history and colonial architecture, seaside, and accessible jungle. At the end of this loop, you will surely can’t wait to return to Southeast Asia.

Bangkok

Recommended time: 2 days. This city has everything, and transformed from a Venice of the East, filled with canals and wooden long-tail boats, to one of the world’s most modern cities. Its heart is still the Chao Praya river, which bisects Bangkok horizontally, and can still be navigated by public boats.

Bangkok shrine

It’s by far one of the most fun ways to get to know the city, considering ferries are cheaper than the Skytrain (an elevated metro) and the Bangkok MRT, and give you a unique insight into areas of the city that still maintain its original character. The must-see attraction is the Royal Palace.

For the rest, it’s all about shopping and glitter: get off at the National Stadium stop, and you’ll be in the business district area. There are many brand shopping malls here, such as Central World, and the very interesting (and free) Bangkok Art & Culture Centre, with rotating exhibitions of local and international talent.

For nightlife, the backpacker district of Khao San Road, and the Arab quarter along Sukhumvit, that’s also close to one of the city’s Red Light districts, Nana Plaza, have great international food and thousands of bars.

Bangkok at night

Speaking of seedy nightlife, Bangkok certainly has its areas, like Patpong, Soi Cowboy and Nana, but its bad reputation is a thing of the past. Now, the city’s fast forwarding into a glittery future, and thrives at its own international pace and energy, which is certainly not for everybody.

Ayutthaya

Recommended time: 1 day. This historic city founded in 1350 is a short train ride from Bangkok’s Hualamphong station, and one of Thailand’s most important and stunning archaeological finds. You will find the brick stupas and Buddha statues that have mesmerized generations, and you’ll be able to ride on elephants, if you are so inclined.

Besides the ruins, the town is charming, with good guesthouses and friendly folks, and a very different taste of Southeast Asia from hectic Bangkok. Truth be told, it’s a vibe you’ll have to get used to, for the region is mostly made of small towns.

Ayutthaya historic city

Siem Reap / Angkor Wat

Recommended time: 3 days. Return to Bangkok and fly to Siem Reap in northwestern Cambodia. The village has overgrown into a decadent tourist town, filled with bars and more hotels than one may ever possibly need, all because of the nearby temples of Angkor Wat, the Khmer culture’s quintessential earthly remains. It was the set of Tomb Rider, among many other bigger and less trivial things.

It is touristy, but for a good reason, for it’s uniquely beautiful. You may leave the town with a sour taste in your mouth, but standing before the Bayon’s multi-faced turrets, or seeing the sunrise above Angkor Thom, are the stuff you see in any world travel bucket list.

Koh Lanta

Recommended time: 2 days. If there’s one island that’s both touristy and charming, is Koh Lanta in southern Thailand. It may particularly appeal to Norwegians and Scandinavians because it’s the haven of many former Swedish backpackers who found it, loved it, and then turned its western coast into an interminable row of full-fledged resorts, yet with that mellow adventurous character.

Sunset at Koh Lanta

Like it or not, for first timers, Lanta is the best of both worlds. Long Beach is wide and beautiful, and backed by a strong nightlife in the lanes running between the sea and the main road inland.

On the opposite coast, Lanta Old Town reminds of the region’s Sino-Portuguese past, with a strong Chinese character, and long wooden homes in pure Malaysian style that extend their verandas over the waves. To get to Lanta, you can either fly from Bangkok to Trang, or take an overnight train, and from here catch a minivan that will directly take you over the bridge connecting Lanta to the mainland.

Penang

Recommended time: 2 days. I am biased when talking about Penang, but if I chose this island as my home, there must be some good reasons. Penang looks more like a city than a tropical island: its main centre, George Town, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the best preserved examples of colonial architecture in the whole of Asia.

Penang street

Let’s not forget that Penang is famous worldwide for its food, and was voted by Lonely Planet as the best destination for foodies in 2014. But the best part is, in the past 10 years since inscription, the crumbling shop houses have transformed into attractive industrial chic cafe’s, restaurants and boutique hotels, which now attract more than a fair amount of tourists.

And there’s so much more than George Town in Penang: great hiking on the central hill, extensive Botanical Gardens, the tourist beaches at Batu Ferringhi, and much more. Culture, however, is what people should come to Penang for.

With a multi-ethnic population of Malays, Chinese and Indians, there are more unique that you would expect from a place of this size.

Kota Bharu and the Perenthian Islands

Recommended time: 3 days. Hop on a night bus from Penang and cross Malaysia’s northern side to the east coast, making a quick stop in Kota Bharu. This predominantly Islamic town not only is the getaway to some beautiful islands, but a food paradise, and sits next to some interesting Thai-Malay temples strewn around the countryside near Tumpat.

Perenthian Islands

Get on a tour and visit before hopping to the Perhentians, once an idyllic couple of islands, and now a tourist mecca. They are still beautiful, but of course, have suffered the toll of mass visitors. In any case, the Perhentians are some of the most beautiful and accessible islands in mainland Southeast Asia, a good place to get a scuba diving certification, and well worth a visit.

Kuala Lumpur

Recommended time: 1 day. If you have to return to Bangkok by plane, you may as well want to do it from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia’s capital and main transport hub, and catch your connection here.

You can spend a day in the city browsing around the central area called Golden Triangle, where you can visit the Petronas Twin Towers, the city’s prime symbol, and once the tallest buildings in the world. Petaling Street, also known as China Town, is where you’ll find most budget accommodation, hostels and bars. It’s the best place to base yourself, as it’s also in walking distance to Bukit Bintang, a famous hawker food and nightlife district.

Kuala Lumpur

With time on your hands, catch a local train from KL Sentral to the Batu Caves, the city’s most important Hindu shrine, and explore the mighty limestone formations on top of a long staircase behind a gigantic golden statue of Lord Murugan.

Now, you are ready to catch your return flight to Bangkok, and connect to Norway. Just make sure you will return when it will not be too cold, or you may have a very big reversed culture shock.

Final thoughts

Southeast Asia really has become a winter getaway for many Europeans, so don’t expect to find yourself alone, and try to balance time with your nationals with time spent trying to understand the people and places you are visiting.

The above itinerary is manageable in two weeks, giving or taking a couple of days for transportation delays, so be prepared to cut something out. You may want to consider flying over trains, as the region definitely has some of the .

Companies like AirAsia, Nook Air and Thai Smile connect most of the important tourist spots, and even if air travel takes away the romance of scooting around the region, it can be effective to save a lot of time.

As a last word, remember that Southeast Asia, albeit small, is an incredibly diverse part of the world, and that in these two weeks, you have barely scratched the surface — but I hope that these suggestions have injected some tropical wanderlust into your cold northern blood, and you’ll be back to explore the beauty of Southeast Asia more and more.

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Where You Can Fly From Oslo in 2024 /fly-from-oslo/ /fly-from-oslo/#respond Thu, 11 Jan 2018 18:37:46 +0000 /?p=20439 The post Where You Can Fly From Oslo in 2024 appeared first on 51Թ.

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From connections all over the Nordic region to some exciting long-haul getaways, here are the destinations you can reach from Norway's biggest airport in 2024.

This year, the skies are wide open for travellers embarking from Norway’s vibrant capital. With flights to almost 160 destinations, the international horizons from Gardermoen Airport have never been broader.

Family walking through an airport in Norway.

Following recent expansions to the terminal at Oslo Airport, the gateway to Norway's charming landscapes and rich cultural heritage has seen an influx of new routes.

These additions enhance the capital's connectivity, bridging distances to a diverse array of destinations ranging from bustling metropolises and serene beaches to hidden gems waiting to be discovered.

Whether you're looking for inspiration for your next holiday, planning a business trip, or simply daydreaming about your future travels, our curated selection aims to inform and ignite your wanderlust.

So, pack your bags and let us take you on a journey to discover what the world has in store for you from Oslo in 2024. Happy travels!

Domestic Flights in Norway

Scandinavian Airlines and Norwegian serve many of Norway's main cities from Oslo. Such destinations include Alta, Bergen, Bodø, Harstad/Narvik (Evenes), Haugesund, Kirkenes, Kristiansand, Trondheim, Stavanger, Tromsø, Trondheim, and Ålesund.

Destinations only served by SAS include Kristiansund, while Norwegian serves Bardufoss, Lakselv, and Molde.

Although ¾ø is known as an airline operating flights mainly in the west and north of Norway, it does operate some direct flights from Oslo.

¾ø propellor plane at Leknes airport.
¾ø propellor plane at Leknes airport. Photo ¾ø.

These include Bergen, Førde, Sandane, Sogndal, Trondheim, and Ørsta-Volda. Seasonal destinations include Brønnøysund, Leknes, Sandnessjøen, and Svolvær. Meanwhile, DAT operate flights from Oslo to Florø, Røros, Stord, and Ørland.

Finally, both Norwegian and SAS operate a route to Longyearbyen airport on the magnificent Svalbard archipelago. Explore ice-covered fjords, remote settlements, and rare wildlife including polar bears. Flights typically go via Tromsø.

Scandinavia and the Nordics

Scandinavian Airlines and Norwegian both operate direct flights from Oslo to various destinations in the Nordic countries.

This includes all the capital cities: Copenhagen, Helsinki, Reykjavik, and Stockholm. In addition, Icelandair operate a direct flight to Reykjavik.

Smaller destinations across the Nordic region with direct flights from Oslo include Aalborg, Aarhus, and Billund in Denmark. Loganair operates flights to Aberdeen, Newcastle, and Southampton.

Fly from Oslo to the United Kingdom

Those heading to the British capital have several options from Oslo. British Airways serves London Heathrow, as does Scandinavian Airlines. Norwegian flies to London Gatwick, while Ryanair flies to London Stansted.

Norwegian and Scandinavian Airlines operate direct flights to Manchester, while Norwegian also flies to Edinburgh.

European destinations

Many important destinations across Europe facilitate connections to other destinations elsewhere in Europe or worldwide.

KLM fly from Norway to the Netherlands. Photo: David Nikel.
KLM fly from Norway to the Netherlands. Photo: David Nikel.

These include Amsterdam (KLM), Copenhagen (Scandinavian Airlines), Frankfurt (Lufthansa), Lisbon (TAP), Munich (Lufthansa), Paris (Air France), Vienna (Austrian), and Zurich (Swiss).

Turkish Airlines to Istanbul is another important connection service. Pegasus also serves Istanbul.

Outside the Nordic region, the country with the most direct destinations from Oslo is Spain. You can fly to Alicante, Barcelona, Madrid, and Malaga. There's also seasonal services to Palma de Mallorca and Ibiza. But that's not all!

There are also direct flights from the capital to four of the seven principal Canary Islands: Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, and Fuerteventura. The location off the coast of north-west Africa makes the islands a great choice for a winter break.

Game of Thrones fan? The stunning old town of Dubrovnik is the setting for King's Landing in the hit show. For centuries, Dubrovnik rivalled Venice as a trading port but now is a thriving tourist destination.

There are many other European destinations available from Oslo. This is just an overview of some of the highlights.

Fly from Oslo to North America

Experience the true with several direct options from Oslo. Catch a broadway show, eat at some of the world’s most famous restaurants, take a romantic stroll through Central Park or choose one of the thousands of other activities.

From Oslo, travellers wanting to visit the city that never sleeps can choose between direct flights to Newark or JFK. Scandinavian Airlines serves Newark, while Norse Atlantic serves JFK, although the latter flight is seasonal at present.

New York cityscape at night.
New York cityscape at night.

Miami dazzles with its vibrant culture, stunning beaches, and lively nightlife. A melting pot of influences, it's a sun-soaked paradise teeming with artistic flair and culinary delights. Fly directly to Miami with Norse Atlantic year-round.

Norse also offers seasonal service to Los Angeles. From Universal Studios and Disney World for families, to Santa Monica and Venice Beach for sun-seekers, Los Angeles offers something for everyone.

To reach other airports all across Canada and the United States, there are many connections available. Some of the most common are with SAS to Copenhagen, KLM to Amsterdam, or Lufthansa to a German airport.

Rest of the World

The biggest destination in the rest of the world from Oslo is Bangkok, which has long been a popular destination among Scandinavian tourists. Direct flights are operated by Norse Atlantic, and, back from this summer, Thai Airways.

The Middle East is an important destination from Oslo given the number of connections available from Middle East airports. Emirates fly to Dubai, while Qatar Airways fly to Doha.

A trip to stimulate the senses, Morocco offers sun, sand, and spice. In Marrakesh, wander through vibrant markets, meet snake charmers and dine outdoors in this city full of surprises. Norwegian fly direct to Marrakesh.

Another African destination, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia's capital, is a vibrant city blending modernity with traditional cultures, renowned for its historical sites and dynamic markets. Ethiopian Airlines fly there direct from Oslo.

Charter destinations

Charter flights are non-scheduled flights organised by operators for specific trips not part of regular airline routes. They cater to private groups, tourists, or companies, offering flexibility in scheduling and destinations.

Popular charter destinations from Oslo include mainland Spain (especially Alicante and Barcelona), the Canary Islands, the Balearic Islands, the Greek Islands, and Turkey.

Such charter trips usually include flights, hotels, and transfers, all in one price. They can offer great value, especially if you fancy an all-inclusive week of relaxation on a beach or by a pool.

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A Weekend Guide to Stockholm /weekend-in-stockholm/ /weekend-in-stockholm/#respond Sun, 17 Jul 2016 11:08:53 +0000 /?p=9234 The post A Weekend Guide to Stockholm appeared first on 51Թ.

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A Weekend Trip to Stockholm, Sweden

Stockholm is easy to reach from cities across Norway making the Swedish capital an ideal destination for a weekend break.

Perhaps the most modern and international of the Nordic capitals, the city nevertheless retains an authentic Scandinavian flavour: original architecture, idyllic islands and hiking opportunities within easy reach of its walkable centre.

Set on numerous islands linked by bridges and boats, Stockholm has several distinct neighbourhoods: The modern downtown district, the historic Gamla Stan, the leafy Djurgården, and creative heartland of Södermalm to name but four.

Stockholm architecture

So many visitors to Stockholm complain about the cost but this is much less of an issue for those of us travelling from Norway! In fact, prices in Sweden are generally 10-15% lower than in Norwegian cities.

Things to do in Stockholm

Here are some selected highlights of what the city has to offer.

Explore the Stockholm archipelago

Stockholm's vast archipelago stretches over 35 miles to the east of the city.

Ranging from large residential communities to recreational islands and tiny rocky outcrops, the archipelago's 30,000 islands can be explored slowly, over a week or more, or just a couple of hours on one of the many express ferries and boat trips that operate around the islands.

The Vasa museum

Home to the 95% original Vasa ship, which sank on its maiden voyage before even making it out of Stockholm's port, drowning most of its crew.

Vasa Museum, Stockholm

The story of the ship's failure is trumped by the efforts to salvage and preserve such an iconic ship that although famous for the wrong reasons, has become one of Scandinavia's leading tourist attractions.

Stieg Larsson trail

Many of the characters in The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo lived and worked in the Södermalm area of Stockholm.

A guided or self-guided detective trail reveals a secret side to the city, along with an opportunity to explore the dramatic cliffs and cosy cafes of Södermalm, and of course, wander past Lisbeth Salander’s apartment.

Gamla Stan

A wander through the narrow streets of Gamla Stan, Stockholm's old town, is a must. The pedestrian-friendly medieval atmosphere of Gamla Stan is home to the city's cathedral and the Nobel Museum.

Gamla Stan

The alleyways off Stortorget, the main market square, offer the best photo opportunities. Head there early to avoid the crowds.

The ABBA museum

Not my cup of tea but ABBA fans travel from around the globe just to visit the world's only museum dedicated to one of the most famous pop bands the world has ever known.

Exhibits include a replica of the cottage where the group wrote many of their songs, a dressing room where visitors can try on Abba's most famous costumes, and of course, an opportunity to appear (virtually!) on stage alongside their heroes.

Where to eat

The historic Pelikan (40 Blekingegatan, Södermalm) is a great choice for traditional Swedish food such as meatballs and reindeer.

On the same island, the restaurant and cafe at Fotograkiska (Stadsgardshamnen 22) is known primarily for its outstanding views across the water.

Book in advance for the vegetarian-friendly restaurant to enjoy such creative dishes as the carmelized artichoke pizza. There's also a cafe for lighter bites including, of course, excellent cardamom buns and coffee.

Getting to Stockholm

Stockholm is easy to reach from most parts of Norway, especially from Oslo.

The archipelago of Stockholm by boat

By air

Both SAS and Norwegian carry hundreds of passengers every day between Oslo Gardermoen and Stockholm Arlanda.

On a typical Friday evening, SAS offers flights from Gardermoen at 1520, 1600, 1700, 1820, 1910 and 2125, returning on Sunday evenings at 1530, 1650, 1835 and 1950. Phew! Book at least a week in advance for the best prices.

Direct flights are also available from most other main Norwegian airports, although they are not as frequent. It is often more convenient to change planes in Oslo.

Once at Arlanda, you are strongly encouraged by advertising to take the Arlanda Express, Stockholm's equivalent of Oslo's flytoget. But wait! At SEK 280 per person, it is a very expensive option.

Discounts can be obtained by booking in advance, but if you're planning a last-minute trip to Stockholm, you're better off taking the Airport Coach, on which tickets are a far more reasonable SEK 119 single or SEK 215 return, with a small discount available by booking online or via the mobile app.

The Stockholm waterfront promenade

By rail

Sweden's state railway company operate 2-3 direct trains per day from Oslo S to Stockholm Central. On Friday night, the 1656 departure from Oslo brings you to Stockholm at 2154.

On Sunday, the 1606 service from Stockholm returns to Oslo at 2104. Although the journey time is much longer than flying, the overall journey time is not so different when you take into account the time taken to travel to/from airports etc.

Book a few weeks in advance for ticket prices under SEK 400 each way.

Where to stay

Stockholm has a wide range of accommodation to suit all budgets. , or check out our two recommendations for both types of budget below.

Haymarket by Scandic

For a splash of luxury and a sense of the roaring twenties, look not further than the recently renovated Haymarket by Scandic at the heart of Stockholm's shopping district. It was here that Greta Garbo started as a shop girl before her Hollywood days.

at the Haymarket by Scandic

Generator Hostel

A brand new addition to Stockholm's accommodation options, the Generator Hostel is a design-led hostel located just moments from Stockholm Central Station. While not the absolute cheapest hostel in the city, the Generator is the most modern and the most comfortable. Dorm rooms and private rooms available.

 at the Generator Stockholm

Further afield

As previously mentioned, the Stockholm archipelago can easily keep you occupied for a week or more. Also within easy reach of the city are the medieval university town Uppsala, and one of the country’s oldest settlements, , just a few miles west of Arlanda Airport.

Feel free to add your recommendations for a weekend in Stockholm in the comments below!

A Weekend Guide to Stockholm, Sweden: The Swedish capital is a fantastic destination for a weekend break.

My visit to Stockholm for TBEX Europe 2016 was supported by Visit Stockholm.

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A Day Trip to Åre, Sweden /day-trip-are-sweden/ /day-trip-are-sweden/#comments Sun, 29 Jun 2014 14:45:43 +0000 /?p=7238 The post A Day Trip to Åre, Sweden appeared first on 51Թ.

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Åre Sweden

Åre is a ski resort in Sweden within easy reach of Trondheim, but what's it like in the summer?

Time for another road trip! This time I was joined by Gerry, my brother Steve and his girlfriend Georgia.

As we'd done Trondheim to death during their trip and took in the Norwegian coastline the day before, we chose to head east into Sweden.

Many people living in Trondheim travel east and across the border into Sweden for two reasons: shopping or skiing.

Just minutes across the border you come to Storlien, known for its shopping centres and the free bus that runs every day from Trondheim.

Meat and alcohol are among the items cheaper here (and petrol, as I found out!) so it's a popular place to come before summer grill parties.

Further on is Åre, one of Sweden's best known ski resorts, and claims to be one of the best downhill resorts in the world.

As such, it's a big rival to Oppdal for anyone in Central Norway, especially as Åre is broadly the same distance (just 40km further)

ø岹

Driving east from Trondheim Airport along the E14, we followed the beautiful ø岹 almost all the way into Sweden.

We saw a few salmon fishermen starting their day in the water and found a lovely place to stop for a few minutes:

ø岹

Stjørdal River

Border crossing

There's not much to see at the border crossing, simply a sign welcoming you to both Sweden and the European Union.

A few kilometres further on is the customs border which we drove through without any control both ways.

Swedish border

äԲԴڴǰ waterfall

I made a last minute suggestion to visit , Sweden's largest waterfall, thanks to a quick search on TripAdvisor.

It's just 15 minutes this side of Åre so wasn't out of our way at all. I was a little apprehensive, after all just because it's Sweden's largest waterfall doesn't mean it's a large waterfall!

But it turned out to a pretty special place. After a 10 minute stroll through the woods, we found this:

äԲԴڴǰ waterfall

The largest waterfall in Sweden

There's also a lovely gift shop and restaurant inside a cute set of buildings.

You could easily spend a couple of hours here especially if you have any interest in fishing or plant life, but as we were just in the country for a day we spent about an hour before moving on to Åre.

äԲԴڴǰs turiststation

Åre cable car

We hadn't done much research about Åre but I did know there was a cable car (kabinbanan) available to take you most of the way up Åܳٲ, the mountain towering over the town.

Thankfully we didn't have long to wait when we got there, and tickets for the return trip were a reasonable SEK 130.

Downhill bikers

We shared the cabin with a whole bunch of downhill bikers, the first sign that there's far more to Åre than just skiing.

Georgia, Steve & Gerry

Åܳٲ

Åܳٲ is a 1,420m high mountain and the cable car takes you 1,274 of those metres!

There is a cute little restaurant at the top, Stormköket, where we warmed up on pizza slices and coffee. Warmed up, because it was SO COLD & WINDY UP THERE! Look!

Cold

Windy

Snow in June

Åܳٲ in summer

View from Åܳٲ

Those bikers from the cable car? Off they go…!

Bikers on Åܳٲ

Downtown Åre

Back down on planet earth, we had just enough time left for a quick stroll around the cute centre of Åre.

We came across the finish line of the , a multisport event combining white water kayaking, mountain running and cycling.

Åre Extreme Challenge

There was a lovely atmosphere in the town square, hinting at the lively nature of the town during ski season that I've heard so much about. Elsewhere, the town just felt like a lovely place to spend some time, if only we had more of it!

Gerry and I will certainly look to visit again once the snow falls to sample Åre at its best. Whether I am skiing by then or not is another question entirely!

View of Åܳٲ

Åre Sentrum

 

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Discovering Minnesota’s Norwegian-American Community /discovering-minnesotas-norwegian-american-community/ /discovering-minnesotas-norwegian-american-community/#comments Mon, 21 Oct 2013 15:33:14 +0000 /?p=5357 The post Discovering Minnesota’s Norwegian-American Community appeared first on 51Թ.

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On my recent visit to Minnesota, the Norwegian-American roots in the Twin Cities were clear to see. Here’s what to expect if you visit.

I previously talked about the surprising number of Americans with Norwegian heritage, more in fact, than the native population of Norway today.

Bridge in downtown Minneapolis, MN.

Many states lay claim to significant Norwegian influence, such as Washington state in the Pacific Northwest that's home to Poulsbo, also known as “.” Yet Minnesota arguably trumps them all.

Read more: The Story of Scandinavian Americans

On my recent trip, I couldn't resist investigating the claim that 868,361 of the state's 5.3m residents claim Norwegian ancestry. That's 400,000 more than in any other state.

Introducing the Twin Cities

But first, a quick introduction to Minneapolis-St. Paul. I had few expectations of Minneapolis. I guess I expected a typical noisy, high-rise American city.

Although there are a few blocks of high-rise buildings, downtown Minneapolis is surprisingly spacious, easy to walk around thanks to the system, and feels quite safe.

Downtown Minneapolis
Downtown Minneapolis.

It shocked me the number of people that used public transport or cycles to get around.

We also visited St. Paul, primarily to see an ice hockey game, as the city is home to Minnesota Wild. St. Paul is easy to reach by public transport, just 20-30 minutes on the express bus and soon to be even easier with the opening of the new Metro green line in 2014.

Me at the Wild!
Me at the Wild!

However, the hockey aside, I don't feel like I captured the essence of St. Paul. I walked around much of the city but didn't feel like I was anywhere other than a workplace. Perhaps I’ll have to go back another time!

Norway House

First up has to be a mention of the lovely folk at Norway House. Not to be confused with the rural community in Manitoba, Canada, which shares its name, this  is an organisation with an interesting ambition:

Imagine a place in Minnesota where all things Norwegian are located, embraced and cultivated

Although founded in 2004, the organisation had no permanent home of its own until very recently. The fundraising drive aims to provide a multi-purpose centre for the Norwegian American community to gather and thrive.

Part one is complete with the purchase of an office building next to the Norwegian Lutheran Church in Minneapolis. Future plans for the block are really impressive:

Norway House plans
Plans for the new Norway House.

One of the first tenants at Norway House is a language school offering immersion courses in Norwegian for kids at their specially constructed . Cool! My sincere thanks to Elizabeth for showing me around and pointing me in the direction of some of the other places below.

American Swedish Institute

A short walk from Norway House is the , and it's obvious to me this is a place Norway House aspires to be. It's a vibrant museum, cultural, and community centre in the leafy suburbs of Minneapolis, the two buildings providing a stark contrast of old and new.

American Swedish Institute.
American Swedish Institute.

I popped into the new building to be greeted with white walls, Swedish minimalism, and cardamom buns. A little stereotypical perhaps, but I'll let them off.

Norwegian Lutheran Church

Right next to the new Norway House office stands , the impressive Norwegian Lutheran Church.

Norwegian Lutheran Church in Minnesota.
Norwegian Lutheran Church in Minnesota.

It was 1922 when Norwegian immigrants, wishing to worship in their own native language founded the church.

Norwegian Lutheran Church in Minneapolis.
Norwegian Lutheran Church in Minneapolis.

Worship is on offer in English and Norwegian, and it was lovely to hear Norwegian being spoken by almost everyone I met, including a group of Norwegian tourists on a slightly more organised version of my discovery tour!

Ingebretsens

A Minneapolis institution! is so much more than just a shop. Surrounded by Mexican takeaways in the ethnically-diverse Midtown neighbourhood, Ingebretsens offers a wide variety of Scandinavian food, specialising in meats.

But they also offer a range of community activities, including needlework, and a classroom for year-round education in Nordic crafts and culture.

Ingebretsens Minneapolis.
Ingebretsens Minneapolis.

Ingebretsen’s has been at 1601 East Lake for 90 years. We now have a web site, a thriving mail order department, and a presence on Facebook. But fundamentally, nothing has changed. “I think it's important neighborhoods have some stability, whatever that may be. I think that's true for individuals too,” says Julie Ingebretsen. “People come in here and they love what they see. They love the atmosphere and they like being treated personally and we at Ingebretsen’s are very proud of that.”

Sons of Norway

The largest Norwegian-American organisation in the world, unsurprisingly headquartered in Minneapolis. I didn't have time to visit , but I did walk right past their building on my way to Lake Calhoun.

The mission of Sons of Norway is to promote and to preserve the heritage and culture of Norway, to celebrate our relationship with other Nordic Countries, and provide quality insurance and financial products to our members.

Sons of Norway was organized as a fraternal benefit society by 18 Norwegian immigrants in Minneapolis, Minnesota, on January 16, 1895. The purposes and goals of the Founding Fathers were to protect members of Sons of Norway and their families from the financial hardships experienced during times of sickness or death in the family. Over time, the mission of Sons of Norway was expanded to include the preservation of Norwegian heritage and culture in our Society.

Norwegian American

During my travels I saw more than one copy of the Norwegian American lying around. It's a regular weekly newspaper rounding up all the news of interest to Norwegian Americans – not dissimilar to my own Norway Weekly project!

The paper claims a readership of 22,000, with readers in every US state, as well as Norway, Canada, Mexico, Sweden, and the Netherlands.

The Bachelor Farmer

This new Scandinavian-inspired restaurant with a rooftop garden has exploded in popularity, thanks in part to awesome write-ups by the likes of the :

last year, along came the Bachelor Farmer, a modern (even chic) restaurant that playfully blends Scandinavian design and tradition with a handmade-food ethos and friendly Midwest unpretentiousness. With roasted rutabagas and reinterpreted cinnamon rolls, pickled Lake Erie perch and house-made rye toast, all served in an airy, reclaimed industrial space softened by country-Swedish wallpaper and cleverly deployed gingham, the Bachelor Farmer has given Scandinavian food a much-needed adrenaline shot.

I'm gutted that I didn't get the chance to visit the Bachelor Farmer. There simply aren't enough hours in the day!

Alt for Norge

I can't possibly talk about Norwegian Americans without mentioning Alt for Norge, the NRK reality show currently airing its fourth run in Norway. When broadcast in the USA the show is known as “The Great Norway Adventure”. The premise is simple – a group of Americans with Norwegian heritage travel to Norway for the first time to compete in a series of “Norwegian” challenges.

The winner gets to meet their living Norwegian ancestors, but all participants find out more about their families. The current series emphasises Minnesota's close ties with Norway, with three of the 12 contestants hailing from the Twin Cities.

I'm aware I only scratched the surface of the Norwegian-American community in Minnesota. The biggest reason? I never left the Twin Cities!

Even so, I feel I gained a real understanding of the links that tie these two parts of the world so closely together, not to mention spreading the word about 51Թ even further afield!

I wish all my Norwegian American readers the very warmest of welcomes!

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Flying SAS Long-Haul to the USA /sas-long-haul/ /sas-long-haul/#comments Sun, 13 Oct 2013 14:44:13 +0000 /?p=5190 The post Flying SAS Long-Haul to the USA appeared first on 51Թ.

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SAS plane

Despite travelling as much as I do, it's been over six years since I last flew long-haul. On that occasion I flew American Airlines from London to Los Angeles, a whopping eleven hours, and back again. But at least that was just one flight…

For my trip to the Twin Cities, the journey wasn't so simple. I crossed the Atlantic from Copenhagen to Chicago (and back from Chicago to Stockholm) with SAS, but this required connecting flights at both ends. There was an option to fly Delta/KLM via Amsterdam, but this was more expensive at the time of booking.

Outbound: Copenhagen – Chicago

Copenhagen is the major SAS hub and easy to reach from Trondheim. It's an airport I often change at on the way back to Birmingham or elsewhere in Europe. It's also my favourite airport – well laid-out, easy to navigate, and an awesome selection of shops and bars.

Because of all my flying over the last few years, I've achieved Gold status with SAS, which entitles me to use all the Star Alliance airport lounges around the world. The SAS lounge at Copenhagen is particularly nice, with a simple buffet, wine, beers, and other drinks available. With food and drink to come on the plane, I didn't indulge too much, I just sank into an easy chair and listened to some crazy Japanese businessman trying to land a deal.

Sounded like it didn't go well 😉

SAS lounge at Copenhagen

SAS Business Lounge at Copenhagen

I was one of the first on the plane so had ample time to stow my bag and settle into my seat. I was on the right hand side of the four middle seats in a 2-4-2 formation, but thankfully there was no one next to me, so I enjoyed plenty of space and comfort during the journey.

Legroom was okay, slightly better than on some domestic flights I've taken. Freebies were a small cushion/pillow, a pair of headphones and a bottle of water. Each seat featured a small personal screen with a controller stowed in the armrest.

The system wasn't the newest, but there were plenty of films and TV shows to keep me entertained, along with an amusing camera on the front and bottom of the plane, especially fun to watch when taking off and landing but less interesting above the clouds…

SAS long-haul on board

Legroom SAS long-haul

Front camera

I watched Now You See Me, a pretty cool magic “caper” film starring Jesse Eisenberg and Mark Ruffalo. How can you not love a film with these two in!? During the movie the first meal was served, a really nice chicken risotto (way nicer than it looks in the photo!) with some salad, warm bread, cheese and crackers, and some weird creamy dessert. I chose some white wine to accompany it.

SAS in-flight meal

Lemon chicken risotto

After reading for a while, I tried watching Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy but couldn't get into it. Eat, Pray, Love met the same fate, perhaps it's something to do with random words making up movie titles? Anyway after a brief nap, some more reading, a coffee and a walk around the cabin, it was time for the second serving – a warm vegetarian wrap served with pear juice and a small bite of chocolate.

Chicago O'Hare Airport is truly awful – crowded, badly signed, dirty, and just horrible. Thankfully I didn't have to wait long for my United flight to Minneapolis St. Paul. Give me Copenhagen any day!

Return: Chicago – Stockholm

Ahh the ole' red-eye. I tend to struggle with all night transportation – bus, train, or plane. This flight was no exception.

It started off in frustrating fashion, with long (and in my opinion, needless) queues at security at both Minneapolis and Chicago, but I still made my way from my American Airlines connection to the SAS lounge at Chicago (next to the gate) in a surprisingly short time. It's a much smaller lounge than the Scandinavian ones, but still offers snacks, a good view of the airport and runway, and some decent beer! Samuel Adams – beats Carlsberg all day long.

SAS Lounge at Chicago

SAS Chicago business lounge

SAS Chicago

Again I was early to board so found my seat quickly, and again I was on the edge of the middle seats. However, this time I was unlucky enough to have a tall guy sit next to me – complete with protruding knees and elbows. I could actually see the chances of me sleeping disappear right in front of my eyes.

My strategy was to watch a movie, enjoy dinner with plenty of red wine and hopefully manage to catch four hours sleep in mid-air. I watched and really enjoyed The Great Gatsby as I tucked into chicken meatballs, rice, broccoli, a really good salad, red wine and orange juice.

And another red wine 😉

SAS Chicago to Stockholm

Salad

Meal

I was comfortable enough in the seat but just couldn't get more than a few minutes sleep at a time. I was able to relax though, and largely ignore what was going on around me (except Mr. Elbows) thanks to the noise cancelling headphones Gerry lent me. I highly recommend them for any night flyers out there!

After 3-4 hours of semi-sleep I gave up as breakfast was only 30 minutes away. I grabbed a Coke Zero and a coffee from the galley to wake myself up before enjoying a typically Scandinavian breakfast – a cheese ciabatta, yoghurt and of course, even more coffee.

SAS red-eye Chicago

SAS long-haul breakfast

The feeling of landing at 7am when your body feels like it's 1am is impossible to explain to anyone who's not flown long-haul before. If you haven't, let's just say it's not very nice.

While not as nice as Copenhagen, Stockholm Arlanda Airport is still a pleasant place to spend a few hours waiting for a connection, especially with lounge access. A few orange juices, coffees, and snacks later I actually felt like it was morning. I even got an hour's work done!

I was surprised to find my flight to Trondheim was on a Braathens Regional Saab – my first flight on a prop-plane and a freaky experience watching the propellor crank up out of the window.

SAS Business lounge at Stockholm Arlanda

Braathens Stockholm to Trondheim

And with that, I was home 🙂

Want to know what I got up to in the Twin Cities? Stay tuned!

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Heads up America, I’m coming! /heads-up-america-im-coming/ /heads-up-america-im-coming/#comments Sun, 02 Jun 2013 14:17:53 +0000 /?p=3933 The post Heads up America, I’m coming! appeared first on 51Թ.

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Minnesota St. Paul

I'm thrilled to announce that this October I'll be visiting the heartland of the Norwegian-American community… Minnesota.

Gerry is in town for a conference so I'm taking the opportunity to join him and visit somewhere I'd otherwise be unlikely to ever travel to.

I've found the Norwegian-American story truly fascinating since moving to Norway, but it's a topic I've never really discussed on the blog. Ever heard the myth that there's more people with Norwegian heritage in America than in Norway? Well, it turns out it's not a myth…

There are more than 4.5 million Norwegian Americans according to the most recent U.S. census, and most live in the Upper Midwest. Norwegian Americans currently comprise the 10th largest American ancestry group ()

The population of Norway is 5 million, but 700,000 of these are immigrants – including yours truly. You do the math!

Position of Minnesota in the United StatesMinnesota is the capital of Norwegian-American community, with 1-in-6 state residents claiming Norwegian ancestry. But the similarities to Scandinavia don't stop there. Minnesota is the most northerly US state other than Alaska, and as a result experiences warm summers and cold winters. The state is nicknamed “the land of 10,000 lakes” and its this water along with vast forests and wilderness that contribute to Minnesotans having a love of the great outdoors.

Sound familiar? 😉

It'll be my fourth visit to the USA but my first since 2007, and I can't wait to see somewhere that isn't California or Florida!

I'll be staying in the Minneapolis–Saint Paul area for a week with very few plans. I'd like to explore the area, meet some interesting people, and make some connections for my freelance writing & publishing career.

So, to all my Norwegian-American readers out there (and I know there's a lot of you!): What should I do? Where should I stay? What should I see? Where should I eat?

Let me know 🙂


Photo credits: /

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